sounds like a good deal, all you really have to do is have a machine shop punch the block, clean it, and put in freeze plugs and cam bearings, etc. Have them asemble it and usually you get a bit of a warranty...usually....

Sounds like a good foundation....

 

With the "light weight pistons"(500 grams compaired to 650 stock), the I beam rods and what they will have to take out of the crank to ballance it, I will loose around 4 pounds out of the rotating assembly. That will make it rev quicker and be easyer on the stock crank. It should be a FUN engine.

 

That sucks!!!! I have my bottle in my spare tire well soo you can't see it. They'd have to search the car to find it, and I'm careful where I use it....LOL or try to be....

 

There are LS1 guys that chase the, "500rwp" mark and they have no idea how much money it costs.

I can't imagine it in a LTx engine.

That Ai rotating assembly looks pretty sweet.

 

i went downtown yesterday and got a rough guess on what labor would be to rebuild the engine and i about **** my pants... needless to say i not going downtown again. but anyway thanks for the opinion on the rotating kit, i think thats probably what im going to get, and as far as heads/cam im probably going with AI again there to. Thank you guys for the opinions support. haha ill see if i can get to the 500 mark without boost... time to kiss some money goodbye lol

 

Probably shouldn't have hijacked this guys thread but anyway, if you want to rev. quicker get an aluminum flywheel. You'll save a lot more then 4lb. Personally I would not put a 150-200 shot on a stock cast crank and I wouldn't be using light weight pistons with NOX.

 

Pretty well documented that the stock crank is a really good piece, in my over 10 years of screwing around with these things and following a handful of LT1 specific forums I am not aware of a single overpower stock crank failure.

Lighter pistons make life easier for connecting rods.

You really don't seem to have any knowledge to add you just blindly question good basic practices.

 

My 355 was supposed to be a budget build around 2.5K to 3K and i'm at $5K-$6K ... OOOPSS! I was just going to change rotating assembly then added cam, then ordered EWP then why not a Cloyes Chain, Then since I had 1.52 rockers how about 1.6 Al rockers... then found out my AFR heads where used up so needed a new set (LE2 from Lloyd...) and so on... Should get the engine back from machine shop this week to assemble and measure deck height and knock a bit of and get it to about 12.4:1 compression to match Lloyds custom cam... hoping to get 430-450 RWHP but wont be easy...

I can't imagine trying to get 500 RWHP N/A...

I would recommend AI TFS heads (the bigger ones he has) with a monster cam and compression to match. To get full power potencial you will need to upgrade PCM (and opti) to something that can spin the cam to what ever it needs to go and also get an intake manifold that would allow airflow enough to get to those RPMs as well. maybe one of those Victor Jr intake or which ever they would adapt to the lt1... then again you could also convert to regular SBC get a Carb + biggest heads you can find + Most bad *** intake... Good Luck and let us know how it turns out.

Sorry for the long post... (and sorry for making it longer by apologizing)

 

BTW to get the higher RPMs you could go with something like this http://www.eficonnection.com/24x/ but dont know if there is a limit to the RPMs on these... Might be easier/cheaper to go with a good 383 and spin the hell out of that within the stock pcm and opti (think max fuel cut is at 7200... is this right?) and maybe get rid of the stock intake manifold anyways...

 

But you with your vast 10 years of experiance knows everything!!

These are from the manufactures sites.
The Ross pistons are between 385gr. and 440gr.
JE pistons are between 318gr. and 395gr. The nitrous pistons weigh 478gr. to 512gr.
Manley's are between 410gr. and 466gr.
So all y'all want to use light weight pistons in your 600-650hp nitrous engines, don't let me stop you.

 

LW2256F Specs:

7000+ RPM
Street/Strip Nitrous Up to 150 shot.
549g at +.30"

I'm sorry for hijacking your thread "englundjd"...

 

Well I see we're having our usual problems with definition. The "LW" indicates Light Weight Piston on the Speed Pro site. This is obviously lighter then stock and therefore could be considered a light weight piston, but not what most would consider "light weight". Also I didn't see anything on the manufactures site that says they are, or are not, good for 150 shot of nitrous.
This appears to be a popular piston as there are a lot of post on a lot of boards talking about it's use. Many of the poster are using nitrous in the 100 to 150 shot range, and a few, more then a 150 shot. However most are not starting at 430-450hp. NA and then adding nitrous. It appears most of the 100 shot crowd have stock bottom ends at stock hp.

 

Not to derail your thread, but what town in Nebraska do you live in? I'm originally from Nebraska.