Hello everyone, I'm new here. It was always a dream of mine to own a Camaro, especially after seeing Transformers 3, I became obsessed with them and then the 2012 ZL1 came out. I'm finally not a kid and after car flipping, I managed to buy a 1995 Z28 with an LT1 that's supposedly heavily modified. Now I have work experience on cars but nothing major, like rebuilding a whole motor or something. The car is in extremely rough shape body wise but that isn't a concern for me, I'm a little more familiar with JDM cars and when engine mods are done, they normally modify the suspension, this car has none of that. It apparently makes 560hp, but the mods to the engine are as goes:

383 Eagle Forged Internals Engine
New Fuel Pump
New Plugs
New 5.0 Injectors
New Wires
Eagle Rotating Assembly
Hot Cam
Tci 3000 Stall
Fi Tech Fuel System
Stage 2 Wild Timing Chain And Gears
2.6 Rockers and Springs
Domed Pistons
Port Matched Heads and Intake
Cold Air Intake

PS: I want to know if this engine is even making 400 just by mods list lol, I know the correct solution would be to drive the car but as of right now I'm still searching for a MAF since mine is bad and I was told that if I drive on a bad MAF the engine could run lean and destroy the motor.

 

Parts list needs clarification:

- new fuel pump - what is the capacity in liters per hour (LPH)?

- new 5.0 injectors - do you mean Ford SVO injectors? If so, what is the flow rating in pounds per hour (#/HR) at 43.5 PSI?

- hot cam - an LT4 HOT cam? Nowhere big enough for a 383. Might approach 400 flywheel HP with ported stock LT1 heads.

- FiTech fuel system - what does that consist of? The LT1 fuel system consists of a pump, filter, pressure regulator, fuel rails, and injectors. The parts related to HP are the pump and injectors. Stock works for everything else. FiTech stuff would appear to involve custom manifold, throttle body injection, etc. None of that is necessary to make big HP on an LT1.

- Stage 2 wild timing chain and gears - what is that? The LT1 requires a unique timing gear set in order to drive the gear driven water pump. GM or Cloyes are routinely used. Haven’t heard of a Stage2 wild.

- 2.6 rockers and springs - impossible. Stock rockers are 1.5, frequently upgraded to 1.6, or sometimes 1.7.

- domed piston - what dome in cc's? Most builds use flat top pistons w/ valve relief. The factory LT1 heads have a 54cc combustion chamber. You can achieve a reasonably high stati CR without domes.

- port matched heads and intake - but not fully ported by a knowledgeable LT1 head Porter? If not, too small for a 383, will struggle to make 400 HP.

- anything special in the way of exhaust - e.g. headers, true duals, catback?

It's hard to take that list seriously.

As far as the MAF, depends on what’s wrong with it. If it fails, the PCM (computer) will default to speed-density to calculate mass air flow. The engine you describe would require a good PCM tune, and the tuner should have addressed volumetric efficiency in order to assure the speed-density method would be correct. If it's a miscalibration, the PCM can correct the fuel flow based on feedback from the O2 sensors, within limits. And if it’s beyond the limits of correction, codes will be set. A GM/AC Delco MAF sensor is not hard to find.

 

I understand, I got this car in a trade for my Silverado. I'm trying to get in touch with the person who built it as the person who sold it to me only had it under his possession for maybe a week. As for the MAF, I fixed the issue, I got a new MAF and the car still didn't startup, and then I realized the car was losing vacuum because it was running the stock elbow boot that connects the MAF and the Intake manifold. It wasn't connected to anything on the bottom outlet, so I taped it, btw what connects to it because I couldn't find any information on it. The car very obviously sounds cammed. I have a new issue now and that is the Oil pressure isn't going up, well at least the gauge is stuck on the red part right in the middle of the red line. I have PTSD from owning old cars since all of them gave me trouble, which is pretty much every car I owned. The oil pressure light didn't turn on but I don't want to take any chances since I have a lot running on this car. The car is leaking oil from the passenger side valve cover gasket which I'm going to fix tomorrow as well as do an oil change, is there any way I can test the gauge to see if it works? I only ran the car for a few seconds but started it up multiple times. The only light the car has on is "check gauges". I really don't want to take any chances since this is supposedly an expensive build. My first car, an Integra that I owned was blown up by my friend because the oil pressure dropped and he decided to send it anyway, I owned a Jeep WK that I got rid of quickly, then I got a G35 that gave me so many problems that I decided to sell it and get a Silverado that had a lot of mods and traded it for this Camaro. I could smell fuel but I think that's just from the fuel tank, I;m not really familiar with these cars but the fuel tank was legit in the trunk and looked like a fuel cell. The fuel gauge also stayed at the same place when I shut the car off which was kinda odd to me since no car I ever owned did that. I know the car looks and sounds bad but I feel like I might have lost this trade. This is a video of it running: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fqq...ew?usp=sharing



I forgot to specify, the exhaust system is very weird, it didn't seem to me like the car was running cats, the exhaust, well the muffler and tip are so far back they don't come to the end of the car within a foot and are held on by a cable. The car is also running BBK headers.