Hey Guys,
Have a 1995 Z28 auto with 43K miles on it. I'm the original owner. It has a 3.23 factory rear, Flowmaster 3-ch cat-back exhaust, Callaway "Honker" and a TB AirFoil for mods. I'm a Mustang guy so I don't know much about the F-body world, but would like to do something with this car. Either looking to sell or trade this car for a new C6 or drop a stout motor into it.

What are my options for crate motors? Can I drop an LS1 in this car or do I have to mess with wiring and computers? I'd like something that makes at least 400hp (flywheel is fine) and is considered a direct bolt-in. I thought about doing H/C/I, just don't want to mess around with wrenching in the tight quarters of this cars engine bay so that is a last resort if I can't find a drop in crate motor that'll wake this car up!

Thanks for any help/guidance you guys can provide.
Mark

 

I think you should reconsider the LT1, its a great motor, especially with only 43k!

I would normally recomend a H/C package from AI or Lloyd Elliot, but if working with this engine is really that much of a turnoff, why not just bolt on a supercharger? It probably is about the same amount of money and would be much easier to install.

Anyway, good luck!

 

I did think about going the supercharger route and that is a possibility.

What type of H/C or H/C/I package would these folks, AI or Lloyd Elliot be able to put together? Something that would add 100 or so hp? I'm assuming to do the cam I'd need to take the nose off the car?

Maybe a nice blower grind cam that'll work well with the auto and the blower will get me an easy 500hp? I'd probably need to change the stall converter, but not a huge deal. Are the stock trannies on these capable of holding 400-500hp or will I need to purchase a stouter tranny?

Thanks!

 

If money were not your limiting factor I would install the centrifugal supercharger kits. They have little to no effect on fuel economy (unless you are flooring it at every light), do not impact driving characteristics, and are a setup that has been validated by a reputible firm. You won't be compromising the reliability and fun factor of your car by installing this kit which I think are things people do not think about when they perform upgrades.

 

There are plenty of people with 400plus rwhp with just heads and cam work. LE makes some nice packages and I'm just about to order my LE 3 heads. You'll need to worry about the stock 10 bolt rear end before the tranny or block power wise.

 

Providing budget and goals for the car will net you better advice and recommendations. Call me crazy but I wouldn't consider using FI on a stock engine with 10.5:1 compression. What do you plan on doing with the car? Will it be a daily driver? These are all factors that you might want to incorporate into your build. -Jerry

 

http://www.golenengineservice.com/

i've personally never used them but you could get a nice motor package to put in your car for less than an ls1 would cost.

 

Sure you could put in a Golen, but how long would it last for? And would they ever call you back when the crankshaft broke?

 

Budget:
$10,000-$12,000 ($ is available now so this won't be a I need to save up to do this and that build)

Would like to stay naturally aspirated, but not afraid to go with a nice H/C/I and a small amount of boost. Car is a weekend toy only. It sees about 3,000 miles a year. Would like to keep it 100% street friendly and a nice driver, like it is now. Car has A/C as well.

I see that it is VERY easy to make some serious power with a basic H/C or H/C/I package and some boost with the LT1.

Is the LT1 intake a part that doesn't need to be upgraded with swapping the heads and cam? Does it flow that well?

 

you dont have to take the nose off the car to do the cam; theres enough room with just taking the rad out.

with 10k-12k you could produce wayyy more than 400fwhp! Im in about $6k/7k and id say im probably putting around 430ish rwhp. You would have enough money to do what ive done PLUS a turbo and 12bolt rear. (if you do the labor yourself, of course)

 

With that budget you can make a tame, streetable, and reliable 500 flywheel hp LTX. Procharger, baby HR cam, supporting mods, suspension, and still plenty left over for tune and some visual stuff to make it pretty. Wont have to tear into it with only 43K, and the stock heads will be fine for those low power goals on boost. You can not even change the cam and still pass your easy 400hp goal with just bolt-ons and a procharger.

Run 6-8lbs and it will last ages.

I'm all for making NA power on a weekend "toy" car, but if you want nice power while staying "100% street friendly" boost is the way to go. Sadly at big power levels it gets more expensive to run NA.The turbo/supercharger is a big expense up front, but then you don't need to spend tons on a stroker rebuild, heads, exotic valvetrain parts, etc to make similar power while still being more streetable then a big power NA LTX.

 

Welp with that kind of money heres what I would do personally.

You say your goals are streetability, and you prefer NA. I am going to go ahead and assume you will be doing the work yourself, so this rough budget estimate does not include any labor you might encounter for things you can't handle.

-Lloyd Elliot LE2 head/Intake/Cam porting package -$1850
http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html
-Mid-length headers with emmissions provisions (long tube if there are no emmisions concerns) - $500
http://www.herronperformance.com/sto...ewCat&catId=78
-Some sort of catback exhaust system or cutouts. Search sound bytes for your favorite sounding brand (I prefer Borla, because its customazable) - $500-1000
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=MkMdlYrSearch
-a 58mm throttle body (Holly, BBk, Lingenfelter, etc.) - $350
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc
-37 lb injectors from delphi (direct recomendation to me from Lloyd Elliot)-$270
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=4&pcid=163
Colid Air Induction Kit - $200
-A Dyno Tuning - $500

Here is a package for about 4 grand that will net you 370-400 rwhp which is right about your goal I believe. I'd budget another $500 or so for gaskets, arp bolt kits, etc. I gave you links to various sites which sell products for our cars. You can shop around for the best price on your own. I don't recomend one over another, you have to make that choice on your own.

Thats half your budget. I would set aside atleast a grand for general repairs and maintenence. Optispark, Waterpumps, Timing chains are all good things to replace while this deep into the engine if you so choose.

I don't personally have an auto, but ive read a stall converter is a really strong bang for you buck mod, as well as rear end gearing. Others can probably help you on suspension mods, I dont know much about that.

 

Wow! Thanks Guys, I REALLY appreciate all of your suggestions and guidance thus far. Thanks for laying out a sample "package" Larsv8.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to do the labor myself (I can do the work no problem, just need to make the time). I do have a relationship with a shop in my area that will install whatever parts I provide at their hourly rate if I don't want to dig into this thing myself.

I'm thinking putting together a mild LE topend (blower grind cam) with a small amount of boost from a Vortech/Paxton/ProCharger would be REAL NICE!

 

Actually he missed a LOT of details that will add up to a LOT more money.

Keep reading for 6 more months before you buy anything. The information you are getting sofar is mediocre you need to put some time in and figure out who posts good info, then pick a car and copy it.

 

It would probably be more helpful to fill in what you think is missing rather to to just "pick a car and copy"