LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Moderate budget, "healthy" 355.... ideas?

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Old Oct 27, 2003 | 02:18 PM
  #1  
grendal's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Moderate budget, "healthy" 355.... ideas?

Guys,

My car is running, but I want to build a complete separate motor so that when I'm ready I can swap it in relatively quickly. Also, I'm of the rather pessimistic opinion that I might be toasting my motor, because when I pulled the stock cam out, I got a good bit of cam bearing shavings on the cam gear :O

Anyway, that aside, here's what I have so far, and I would like to build this motor for under $2,500-ish, and have a 400 crankhp motor... please tell me if any of the following is unrealistic.

Purchased already:
-LT1 "shortblock" rebuildable.... I intend to use stock rods and crank, this is a BUDGET project! I'm poor.

Stuff I am thinking about:
-Edelbrock Performer heads or LT4 heads (?)... budget... I cannot by any means on earth imagine how a set of heads ($200 core) with labor end up being $2,500 from some places. I can't justify it. Bottom line: It's ****-poor bang for the buck.... So, I'm thinking of going with a better-than-stock casting, but avoiding the cost of porting... bad idea? good idea? Help? heh.
-The most "badass" cam I can possibly run.... this is where I hope to make up some of the difference. I don't know if I want to go CC306 or possibly a custom grind.... This is a toy car, not a daily driver. I don't care if it idles like a top fuel dragster. In fact, that'd be a plus, so long as it can be tuned not to die at stop lights.
-1.6 or 1.7 rockers. I have GM self-aligning rockers, which I may re-use, or I may go with guideplates. I have not decided.
-10.5-10.8 compression with flat-top pistons (54 or 58cc chambers) using either Forged or Hypereutectic pistons... Maybe forged, because I may spray this car down the road (woohoo, more power!!!)
-Stock LT1 or LT4 intake, maybe ported for a bigger TB?

Somebody tell me what kind of power I might make, and what kind of money I might spend...

By the way, the shortblock is costing me $250 (shipped, guaranteed rebuildable), and the Edelbrock heads are under $1,100 complete, no core. I'm not sure what machine work costs these days... I would only entrust it to someone familiar with building PERFORMANCE engines, not farm truck motors

Thanks,

Michael
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 02:44 PM
  #2  
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From: Phoenix AZ
You don't need heads to get 400hp at the crank.

I run stock heads with Race Flo 1.98/1.56 valves.
CC306 cam, 1.6 rockers, Comp 986 springs, Type R lifters,
SRP forged pistons, block decked to zero, and thinner Fel Pro head gaskets.
Along with some crappy headers, CAI, stock catback, and a 52mm TB I get 415hp at the crank.
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 03:27 PM
  #3  
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From: Woodstock,Georgia
Keep as much of what you allready have as possible.

Reuse the rr you have.
better to port your heads than use bigger unported castings
Use the stock crank
If you plan to spray do forged rods and pistons(you could do TRW pistons and Eagle Ibeams for $700)
Dont bother with bigger TB
You need at least hardened push rods.

You can get the machine work done for about $400
Port and valve job on your heads would be $500-$800
Fluids and gaskets...$200
You could reuse the headbolts but I would do new ARP $70

Thats about $2500 inculding your block.

With odds and ends figure $2700

I forgot the springs and cam....so your looking a $3000 ....youll have to lose the headwork to make budget or do it yourself.
Old Oct 27, 2003 | 05:14 PM
  #4  
grendal's Avatar
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Thanks! I forgot about pushrods, but that's no biggie....
Lots to consider.

-Michael
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