i just installed my jet hot mac midlengths. Overall i would say it wasn't as bad as i thought it was going to be but maybe thats b/c i didnt have to fuss with the y pipe. I drove it today open midlengths with the o2's plugged in trying to get to the exhaust shop for a true dual set up. My question is after 3 min. of driving, me SES light came on and the car felt like it had some real bad hesiation. I just did the tatlor ovc wires and ngk plugs along with ne o2's. Could driving it with open headers cause the hesitation?

 

...maybe its knockin...?

 

so your saying i'm getting knock retard? i have a lt4 knock module. WIll the full exhuast stop that?

 

its cause ur exhaust is open...the o2's are reading outside air and going extremely lean, which sets the car in "limp home" mode...get the rest of your exhaust put on, then reset the comp. by pulling the pcm fuse for 10 sec...then ur good to go

 

nvm i just looked at your sig.

 

is that why it seemed to idle at like 2000 rpms when i drove it, it would eventually come down when i came to a complete stop for like 10 seconds.

 

If you don't have a y-pipe on your O2's will sense some out side air and it will screw up your BLM's. Did you hook up the EGR? if not that might be your SES also.

 

yes, when in "limp home" mode, its running in speed density, so when ur stoped, the MAP is detecting different pressure than when you are moving (air being forced into intake) and since speed density relies on MAP more than the MAF system does...it could be causing your high idle...just get the exhaust on it, and see what happens

 

ok, thanks for your input guys!

 

Running true duals off of midlengths? Sweet! Let us know how it all turns out.

Dan

 

just got the car back and the true duals sound awesome. I hated the rasp of my y pipe into my mac catback so thats why i decided true duals. It is deep and throaty and roars in the upper rpms. The only downfall is the interior noise b/c of the turndowns. It vibrates and rattles my change in my cup holder when i am decelerting. I still have the SES light and when i scanned it, it came up as code 29 ( EAS/ electrical fault) what is the result of this and what could be the source of the problem?

 

How are you doing True Duals with Mid's? Got any pic's of this setup? I was kinda thinking of doing this setup eventually, but was unsure of how it would work. And why did you do turndowns and not go over the axle? What size pipe were you using?

 

i just got it back so i have no pics. I used 2 1/2" piping into 2 dynomax bullets. I had my guy follow the same route as the stock piping. He was able to fit a x pipe in that channel. Then when it got before the axles he had one of the pipes go towards the drivers side so that the 2 pipes would be in the center and even. I have incredible ground clearance this way. I also had him weld hangers and put ball flanges on the ends where it bolts up to the headers so i can drop the system any time.

 

How much did that all end up costing ya? It sounds like a pretty sweet setup. The only thing I woulda done different would have been to go over the axle, cuz i just dont like the idea of dump, way to much interior resonance. Anyways, if you get pics, PLEASE post them!

 

all ended up costing $385 which included labor, turndowns, x pipe, 2 dynomax bullets, and 2 1/2" piping. Yea the interior noise is absolutely crazy. It gets to your head but at the same time its why i drive the car.... I LOVE IT! It made it sound completely different than any y pipe type setup except for the gmmg and it wasnt that exspensive. My favorite part is that i can have it down in about 10 min. any time i want to change plugs, etc. It was a huge SOTP gain and the only gain that has made me think that maybe i should start thinking about some traction. I have done almost every bolt on and this was my last and i can say this was the biggest difference in terms of gains....definately something i should have done first.