Hello! I'm new to the forums, and as of yesterday have just bought my first 1995 Camaro Z28. I stole it for $1,000, and I have a couple questions I thought you guys might have some knowledge to share.

1) The guy I bought it from said it knocked, and he drove on it about 30 Miles that way. The car is NOT locked up, it does start. But as soon as it starts, it knocks realllyyyy loud. There are metal shavings in the oil, the valve covers, and I'm sure other places where there shouldn't be shavings. The guy said it lost all oil pressure, spewed smoke out the back, and lost all power when he was going up his back hill(Approximately 30MPH.) I'm hoping for the best when we tear it down. But my question is: What do you guys think is the issue?

2) The car has had a good list of mods done to it, and has posi-trac. I'm curious on how much RWHP this baby put down when it was running. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few, but here are the mods I can remember:

A) LT4 Intake from Edelbrock
B) LT4 Heads(I'm assuming this, since it has an LT4 intake? Please correct me if I'm wrong)
C) Some sort of Longtube headers, going to a y-pipe with no cat.
D) Golden Crane Roller Rockers
E) CSR 901LT1 LT1 Electric Water Pump
F) Comp Cam 224/230
G) Comp lifters
H) Manual 2-Speed Fan Switch
I) Shift Kit (Don't know anything else about the transmission, as far as stall goes)
J) PCM4Less Mail-order custom tune(Said it idles at 1,100 RPMS, and that's all he said)

Sorry for such a long post! I'm just excited owning my dream car, and very curious about certain things. Again, I'd like to introduce myself to the forums and I'm sure I'll be a regular user from now on. Any knowledge is appreciated, thanks!

 

The car has a spun bearing. If it were me, I would find a good condition stock crank that's never been ground. This will allow you to get away with just a polish for $50 as opposed to paying for an expensive grind. Stock cranks can be bought for $50.

Car should make good power when it's done. Aftermarket LT4 intake doesn't mean it has LT4 heads but it could. Ask the seller or check the head for a casing number.

While it's apart make sure you clean the hell out of everything. That metal shavings are as fine as dust and they are everywhere in that motor.

 

That is what I want to hear! I really hope that's all it is. Where can you find a crank for $50? And how much HP/Torque you think it put down?

 

Look in all the classifieds or eBay. You'll find one.

That's the least of your worries. That engine has to come out and be completely disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. You should replace the oil pump as well...

The machine shop will have to replace the cam bearing. Figure on replacing the rings while it's apart.....

 

As far as the crank, I got lucky. I put a thread up and a local responded saying he had a couple of stock cranks. Just needed a quick polish.

If you have money you can have this engine pulled, built, and put back together in about 4 days time.

Pulling this motor is easier than people make it sound if you are mechanically inclined and have a friend willing to help.

Once you remove the radiator and fans, unbolt the bellhousing and unplug everything, the engine comes right out the top (I didn't even have to pull my hood - did not get in the way at all).

Once it's out you can have it disassembled in no time. I used a Milwaukee impact that runs on the lithium ion battery. It made everything come apart so much easier, wouldn't work without it. Once you have everything apart do the following.

Take your rods, new stock crank, and block to the machine shop. Have them tank the block if they can (They don't do that here in MI).

Have your new crank polished

Have ARP rod bolts installed onto the rods and have them reconditioned.

You can clean your heads and intake at home. Clean the oil pan, main caps, etc...

If you know how to build a motor, this should cost you under $500 and run like new.

You will also need....

intake gasket set
exhaust manifold gasket set
2 head gaskets
rear main seal
timing cover set
copper gasket spray
copper RTV tube

Get it at advanceautoparts.com and use coupon codes like big15, big30, big50, visa and the like. Get creative. Buy online and pick up in store. Using coupon codes will save you handily. You can do multiple orders to maximize savings.

Have the shop order your piston rings, cam, rod and main bearings.

 

Sad news, got it in the garage today and there are 3-4 holes in the oil pan.

 

You did realize that the engine was going to need to be pulled and rebuilt didn't you? That news isn't all that bad as you can get an oil pan for cheap.

 

Oh, I had every intention on pulling the engine. But, these aren't just holes..They're gashes. How tough are these LT1 blocks if one(or maybe two) of the connecting rods broke and was ran on?

 

It's shot...look on eBay for a replacement engine.....

 

why did you drive it when you knew it had a rod knock? if you drive on that its only a matter of time before it snaps.

 

I didn't drive on it. I bought it this way from a kid who drove on it, lol. It should just be the block that shots, though? I found a 350 bare block on craigslist for $75. Does it need to be anything specific to just bolt everything back onto it?

 

You didn't mention it had holes in the oil pan in your original post.

Block, rods, crank, pan. You need a new bottom end - rotating assembly and crank.

Try to find a set of rods/pistons, crank, and a block. If you can't find it all in one place it may be cheaper to just buy it separately.

I think you can use a regular SBC block but I am not positive. I would find an LT1 block because I'm not sure that other SBC's have the water pump drive gear, and I know that older SBC's have a distributor in the back and not the opti.

Somebody else will have to answer whether or not you can use a SBC from something else.

 

It has to be an LT1 block. You could also have crank and cam damage. Methinks the PO was not so forthcoming about the amount of engine damage.

 

Can you clarify the differences between the LT1 and a traditional SBC?

 

I didn't know it had holes in the oil pan until I got it up on Jacks today and took a look.

I'll try to find a 93-96 LT1 block just to make things really simple. I'm kinda pissed off because it's a shame this happened. The kid who owned it before me ran 90W Gear oil as his engine oil.

Also, a couple of the roller rockers I could literally pick up and move side to side, almost 75 degrees. It's Cylinder 3 & 5 on the right bank. Is this normal?