LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Mcleod Clutch break in time?

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Old Oct 17, 2003 | 02:09 AM
  #1  
drewstealth's Avatar
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From: Fairfield, ca
Mcleod Clutch break in time?

I'm gonna order my mcleod single disc clutch tomarrow. Along with there PP and steel flywheel. I'm just wondering how long of a break in do you recommend? 500 miles? Also i know you have to get the adjustable master cylinder for the street twin but do you have to get it on the single disc also?
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 08:51 AM
  #2  
firepheasent's Avatar
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From: Cape Coral, FL
I have a Mcleod single disc, SLP PP, and a stock flywheel. I have a ton of disengagment issues with it??
Mcleod says you dont need an Adj Master for the single disc. Im thinking that I just got a bad disc. Me and Patriot T/A also a board member bought single set ups at the same time and we both had or have problems with it. I guess we got a bad batch or something.
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 09:00 AM
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You DO NOT have to get the adjustable master cylinder with the single disc setup. I ran that for 2 1/2 years on the stock master.

Give it about 500 miles of normal driving before you tear into it. You definitely don't want to glaze the clutch over when it's brand new.
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #4  
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fastbird 93 is right!
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 10:00 AM
  #5  
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From: Bakersfield, California, USA
I have the McLeod single clutch disc and pressure plate combo. My flywheel is stock, but I had it resurfaced while it was off.

I've had nothing but good times with mine. For the past 3-4K miles, I've been running the stock master cylinder setup. I did just get a new one though, I like to replace things BEFORE they go out in the middle of nowhere.

As far as break-in goes, you don't want to slip the clutch at high RPMs for a few hundred miles. This will put a glaze on the flywheel (as mentioned above).

Also, make sure that you torque the pressure plate on correctly. It's a pain in the ***, but you'll have nothing but problems if you don't.
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 10:41 AM
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From: Hopkinsville, KY USA
Originally posted by i387
Also, make sure that you torque the pressure plate on correctly. It's a pain in the ***, but you'll have nothing but problems if you don't.
Do you have any tips/instructions?
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 11:14 AM
  #7  
drewstealth's Avatar
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Thanks for the replies guys. Also whats the torque on the PP. And does anybody have a site with all the torque specs?
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 12:35 PM
  #8  
i387's Avatar
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From: Bakersfield, California, USA
Originally posted by WOOS1
Do you have any tips/instructions?
This is out of the Chilton's manual (page 7-10):

To install
14. Position the driven plate to the flywheel.
15. Install the clutch pressure plate and install the retaining bolts/screws finger-tight.
16. Align the clutch driven plate with the pilot bearing and clutch pressure plate using tool J33169 or equivalent alignment arbor.
17. Tighten the clutch pressure plate and cover bolts/screws in a star pattern, as follows:
Tighten to 22 ft.lbs. (30Nm)
driven plate=clutch disc

Take the flywheel down to get it resurfaced. This is especially important if the clutch has been slipping, as it will cause burns on the flywheel that will cause problems with the new clutch.

Replace your pilot bearing/bushing while you have the flywheel off. It's a bugger to get out, you'll need a slide hammer or other J-shaped tool. The replacement part is very cheap (less than $5).

Also replace any freeze plugs that you can while the tranny is out of the way. The rear main oil seal is also easily accessable at this point. Might as well replace it too.
Old Oct 17, 2003 | 02:11 PM
  #9  
drewstealth's Avatar
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Well i'm getting a new flywheel. As for the pilot bearing i replaced that 5,000 miles ago when i did the clutch last time but i'm gonna take it out and put a bushing in it instead since i hear it is better. I will probably replace the rear main seal also.
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