Ok doh. Don't have all the lingo down yet. Thanks!!

I'll give them a buzz. I had a fellow offer me a 383 block with LT4 Heads and the LT4 intake. He is supposed to call me today about the combo he has. Engine was built by Karl Ellwein and recently rebuilt by Long's Machine Shop in Texas. Has a Custom cam; 228/234/110 with .611 lift on both intake and exhaust using 1.6 rockers.

He's looking to get about $4850 for that engine. Is that a good price for that type of setup?

 

I would ask for documentation for the head work and get the other build information on the engine as a start. See what parts and work went into it and what shape it is in. It might be a great engine or somebody else's mistake, it is hard to tell. For a $4850 used high performance engine that's been rebuilt twice, I would check it over real good.

 

Yeah I'll definitely ask what all they have or haven't done. Good idea on the build sheet.

 

I have an issue buying other peoples projects....

If i were u i would much rather have a motor built from scratch by a reputable shop.... Or if u still want to use ur block... Send it out to be built....


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

 

I talked to the fellow. He seems to know his stuff. At least a lot more versed than I am. Seems pretty reasonable over the phone. He's going to get me some more info on it.

He had the motor rebuilt at Long's Machine Shop in San Antonio, TX. Said the block was tested, new bearings, repolished the crank(which is a forged crank), rods and pistons were good. Said the cylinders were re-honed and the pistons re-ringed with new rings. Will install the heads after they get new springs and a valve job. So the engine would be shipping from a shop in Texas. But he seemed pretty cool on the phone. I dunno... I'm tossing the idea around.

Does the LT4 and the LT1 intakes have the same bolt down locations and all? I have the wonderful traction control and the alternator brackets that I would have to move to an LT1 to an LT4 intake. Would these pieces bolt up the same?

 

I'd probably suggest pulling the block and replacing the lower main bearings, cam bearings, etc.

It really depends what heads/cam you are looking at, and how you plan on driving it.

Do some searching/reading, there are various parts on the shortblock that are strong enough to withstand more horsepower than it sounds like you are planning on throwing at it, but at the same time there are some weaker links that it might be worth building up while your at it.

You can not run the LT4 intake with LT1 heads. You need to run LT4 heads and intake or LT1 heads and intake. You can't combine the two. Other than that (just looked and your combination has both) you should be able to bolt up to your car just fine.

 

The guy may sound well versed...but inurge u to be carefull.

Many years ago...i found eric parrish of epc who specialized in ltx and lsx builds... I ordered the motor built the way i wanted for my boost application....

About 4,000 miles later it started makin noise...we pulled it out...and tge crank broke in two... Why...cause the forged crank i ordered was a cast eagle crank.... My 4bolt splayed mains were nothing more than stock 2 bolt mains...my ported and polished intake and heads were untouchedbexcept for larger tb openings....when the block went to the machine shop..i was advised nearly all the holes were out of round..... And there were 7 of one piston...one of another....the list goes on.... It was amazing i made any power on boost with that thing....and ask anyone that knows me...i dont beat my stuff...hell my car has only ever been down the track once...on the stock motor.....

Sorry for the rant...but that lesson learned cost me 5500 bucks...plus...the cost of doing it over again.....


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

 

Thanks!! My plan was to also call the Machine Shop it is at and ask them what they know about it. If I'm forking out that can of cash it might even be worth a trip out there myself.

My local shops evidently don't want to do business or something. I have called and left messages and they even said they will call me back but nothing. Go figure.

 

You should add were you live with your details and perhaps someone knows a place near you to check out. Im with popo8 im a bit worried with my motor but at least I know my heads were ported and got the headstuds so hopefuly my internals are forged and assembled better than the headstuds(they were put in with teflon tape and at least 6 leaked with no pressure in coolant system and I had to pull motor back out). As far as your local shops alot of good people are so in demand and just swamped so a trip to their shop might get you further and could meet them as many people are salesmen. Sometimes you can save big bucks on other peoples investments but its a risk too. As your talking to the shop that did the work might ask them if motor has been payed for because they may be holding it for payment plus it may show you more about them and the seller. Id look into their rep too. Google them and also check better business on them.

 

The LT1 and LT4 manifolds are identical externally, so all your brackets will bolt right up - mine do. Unfortunately, the LT4 intake is not much different internally than the LT1 intake, and requires a substantial amount of porting to work with ported (or even stock) LT4 heads. If Karl Ellwein built the engine, I would contact him and see if you can trace the components he used. He's a very knowledgeable LT1 builder.

If I had traction control, I'd remove it before installing a high performance engine. It really serves no useful purpose with such a setup, and its ugly sitting on the valve cover.

 

The place is LRE (Longs Racing Engines) in San Antonio. I talked to the owner. Looks like they have been in business for about 40 years. Father opened the shop in the 60's and his kids grew up in the shop. Father passed away last year and now the kids are keeping it going for their dad.

From what reviews I could find nothing negative. They said the guy who owns the motor has had several engines built there and they didn't know what his game was but that he has always been legit with them and he doesn't put crap in his builds.

They told me to call back and I could talk to the guy who assembled the engine and e could tell me everything that has gone into the block this far.

 

Where is the stamp on the transmission, I have never noticed it.

 

I talked to the engine builder and he said it has a forged crank, eagle H-Rods, Mahle pistons with new Mahle rings. Clevite bearings and everything is solid for a 383. They seem legit and the builder said he thinks this guy is in the up and up.

So feeling pretty decent about it. It's not some Joe Schmo bolting stuff together in his backyard. So at least a machine shop with some history behind it has put it together.

 

You must have missed it in the picture in the link that you quoted. It is clearly shown, right next to the block stamp.

 

Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com