I don't understand, I thought you were all set on the torque converter?

Honestly, if you want good drivability and be a consistent 12 second car, just drop in the damn stall already! I'm telling you, a Vigilante 2800 combined with some great street tires (preferably Nitto DR's though) along with a trans cooler will easily net your car a solid 5 tenths in the 1/4. You're NOT going to see that type of gain with any of those cams in your car. Not to mention you'll have to tune the cam (especially since you'll be running the crappy stock stall) and it will actually suck gas worse than the extra revs of the bigger stall around town.

I've never understood why so many people are so insistent on dropping a cam into their autos without the correct supporting parts. I personally guarantee you your car will be a LOT more fun to drive with the upgraded stall than the bigger bumpstick right now. And after you've finally taken care of the drivetrain (stall, gears, maybe trans), then go with a good matching cam that will work properly with whichever stall you have. Unless you'd still rather have a car that is a dog out of the hole because of your stock stall (you'll never see the potential of the cam this way). And don't forget the better shift extension your car will get with the bigger stall too. I PM'd you all about that before...

It's your car Dustin, but if you want the best drivability since it's a daily-driver, then I wouldn't go diggin into the motor until you get a second car. Don't forget you run the big risk of potential spun bearing problems. Obviously, if the install is done right, it's doubtful, but it still has happened to many others none the less.

Do it right with the stall first and cam later,

Mike

 

Well more than likely the stall is coming first, with the cooler, and this is all after the ASP pulley/160* stat/TB bypass/LS1 brakes gets put on this week and the E-WP a bit futher down the line. I am looking to at least touch 12's before diving into the engine. This thread is just for some more information on a few cams I am interested in for some summer fun. The stall speed 2800-3000 has already been decided, now its just for cash flow and the right deal to get one.

So far the GM 846 is intriguing to me, not really popular, but seems like a good billet cam. Other than that I want to be nice and original which is why I am talking to Bret Bauer through emails trying to zero in on something that will suit my needs well.

Darkhorse, you setup is sweet, and I'll probably be talking to you about how you like your stall soon, since thats getting higher and higher on my list. Also where can I find info on the GTP stuff? I used to see it at thunderracing.com but I dont see it there anymore. I think your going to be close to 12 flat by the end of this season, 11's if you talk Grease into borrow those AI heads. I hope to see you at 42 soon and be a regular there for more "seat time."

I wasnt real set on a cam until I had all this outside influence on why I dont have the cam to match the rest of my valvetrain. It seem everyone over in Akron cant wait to cam another LT1, lol.

Darkhorse, you get the plates off that Ford yet? I think you can start talking crap with a 12.3...

-Dustin-

 

Dustin - if I could start from scratch with my car, the converter would be the very first mod without a doubt. As far as GTP goes - I personally wouldn't buy new from them, they seem way overpriced to me. If you can find a used unit from someone that you can trust then go for it but i'd look into a CompCam or another big company that offers something very close (if your interested in my cam).

I'm gonna lighten the car and screw around trying to hit high 11's without touching the heads. Not sure i'll be able to do it but it'll be fun trying.

Love my converter 3000 stall 2.5 str - great mod.

 

Yea, I saw its Midwest, I am sure it will snap my tires loose and any speed with these street tires. I think for the small budget I have I wont be doing a Vig, but probably a TCI or Mdiwest. Dont worry, with some time at the track and a bit of money saved the TC will be going in soon. Did you install yours at your place? Did you do a tranny cooler and/or shift kit too? Thanks.

What do you think about the GM 846? Grease seemed to speak highly of it when we were at your place. I need to find a GM person with a discount...

-Dustin-

 

Try an Edge converter - Johnny is running one in his Caprice - it's a nice unit.

 

Hey dustin, this is joel from GMR SPEED, how is your car running....Hows everything else going?

 

Hey Dustin,

I PM'd you some time ago with the small Joe O. cam I have in my 383. I am in agreement that you should start at the back of the car and go forward. Forgive me if you've done this, I didn't read your sig, but do suspension, gears, and transmission/converter first with an eye on cam selection for the gears and the stall. And get a good driveshaft and TA which takes the mount off of the tailshaft. A 6100rpm BOOOOOM really sucks. The Devil is in the details, and I'm embarrassed at the stuff I overlooked after 20 years of playing with cars...

As far as small cams go I went 11.70s @ 115-118mph for 10 years with a 211/219 .533/.560 on a 112 LPE/Accel grind. 22-25 mpg highway, passed emissions in MD and drove great everyday. I went a little bigger, yet still considered small, in my 383 now with the Joe O. cam, but emissions are out of the question now (which is fine for me in PA) I'm a huge fan of little cams. You don't need big to be bad....

--Alan

 

So you guys are suggesting to do the tranny first before getting the cam put in. In my case..I plan on doing both but wasnt sure which end to start first. I guess starting with the tranny does make sense so you can drive around still and then swap the cam and your all set.

 

You can build a 500hp motor and with no suspension, rear, trans work, you will never realize the full potential. I know it sounds very basic, but most get so caught up in rwhp numbers that they lose sight of the entire package. One of the best ways to properly build any car is to decide on its purpose..street; street/strip; strip only; drags; autocross, etc and follow a plan to get you there. I always try to start at the back of the car and move forward. I decide on the motor specs and my planned usage of the car and plan the chassis accordingly. Once you have a good suspension and driveline you'll be able to take full advantage of your motor.

I just completely ignored my own advice and it almost cost me tremendously. My driveshaft, which I took for granted as being a somewhat stout piece, broke in half at 6100rpm on the dyno behind my newly freshened 383 and bent my TA which broke the tailshaft of my trans and ripped the yoke off of the rear. I was completely stupid to think that just because my parts held up before that they would be ok with about 50 more lb/ft of torque. Dumb. I paid more attention to the motor than to the rest of the driveline...Build everything to handle your planned power levels, then build your power...

--Alan

 

Joel, the car is running great, thanks for the help, I'll let you know how I do at the track soon. How is the shop coming along?

ABA383: I am working around the car as much as I can with my college student budget, I just focused some funds on a strong valvetrain and now I am just finishing up LS1 front brakes and hawk pads all around. After the brakes, 23% ASP Crank Pulley, and E-WP, its into the A4 for a TC and tranny cooler. Definately doing a driveshaft, I really like the LPE one. Gears I think I'll leave for now, stock 3.23's. Rubber is done with 275/40/17 GS-D3's on all fours. Suspension will be mixed in during summer months. I dont want to go wild on a cam since its my only car till I get a beater this summer. I love smaller cams, I wish there were a few people running LPE stuff on stock headed/block LT1's for some comparison.

Right now I am liking the GM 846 as an off the self option or I am talking to Bret Bauer for a custom cam of similar size. Although that may wait till I get some nice heads to match a custom cam to.

I just want a nice strong runner that I can enjoy on a daily basis yet back me up on most occasions. I am looking for lots of area under curves without revving to high. I want something torquey and well mannered. The 847 and CC306 are both proven cams but make power way into the 6600-6900 rpms. Way to high for my daily driver. I would enjoy to run numbers similar to what Darkhorse is putting up, although I think the GM 846 is slightly smaller than his GTP4.

Only time will tell, hopefully I can get consistant track time in with all my friends from Akron and get better at driving my car and get the most from it.

-Dustin-

 

Glad to hear...The shop is coming along great...We got the offices done the lifts are in and the dyno will be thier next week. Let us know if you need any help .

 

I will, will you guys be doing head work? Thanks.

-Dustin-

 

FWIW, my 847 peaked at 5800. Granted its best to shift past peak power to keep you in the higher power when you shift, but shifting at 6000 my car still went 12.8 @ 110. I got the 12.5 @ 112 by shifting around 6400. I'm gonna up the shifts to 6700 to see if it improves any. I do think a 847 is a bit big with a stock stall and 3.23s tho. I had a 305 cam for a while and it drove better than stock with noticeable improvements. Never dynod it or took it to the track tho.

 

Dustin - I'd be more than willing to trade you my LS1 rears - rotors less than a year old - for your LT1 rears. Calipers and rotors I believe. If you were interested in LS1 rears that is. I gave me LS1 fronts to Grease and I have an LS1 rear but want the LT1 rear brakes.

 

Yeah, are doing everything you need to ge done.