Alright, Im sure the code is still the same as last time but I have to find out wat the code was, but here is wat the car is doing:

Trouble starting
Runs but pops and backfires and runs really sluggish, then once you reach a certain rpm it doesnt wanna really go, then I gotta tap the gas to get it past that point (this is when it is really misfiring bad), then when I hit 60 same thing, 80 or above really bad, then the car gets to 210 and sometimes like 215 and will stay there (misfiring so bad that it is making the engine run hotter) usually runs @ 180 and I have the fans running constantly. Another thing is it is running really really rich.

Also at the track, I would run the car normal, and it would bog down when I launched, then I unplug the MAF sensor and it would still pop and **** but itd run really rich but it would not bog down and I had no problems at the track but it would only do good for a short moment, becaus I tried to drive it on the highway like that and it was worse, so I plugged it back up.

NOTE: All new igntion parts, not sure if it is the timing chain that couldve jumped a tooth or something, it has codes but wouldnt the chaing throw a code? When put up to a scanner, it is misfiring at every cylinder, multiple times.

Any help is really appreciated. Thanks, tired of the car running like this!

P1351 (Havent checked in about a month but thats what it is im sure)

 

What did you do to get rid of the code last time? Did that cure the problem? Did you find something wrong with the IC Module or the wiring?

Have you checked the coolant temp sensor and MAP sensor readings? Both of those could be causing it to run the way you describe.

 

MAP sensor is brand new and I thought it was fixed last time but it wasnt, still same problem, same symptoms. Redid the wiring and the code never went away. IC Module is new. Ill check readings.

 

P1351 is for high voltage/open circuit in the spark control system..... hard to understand how replacing the MAP sensor cleared that up.

You really ought to scan it.

 

Like i said, the map sensor didnt clear it up, never ever cleared up, i changed the map sensor. I am saying if I scan the map it wont be the problem but I can see wat its putting out, never cleared up since the last time, I thought it did but it only ran good for about a day. Not sure wat the prob is, im gonna get it scanned.

 

2 Codes as follows:

P0118 Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage (I think)
P1351 ICM High Voltage (I think)

Otherwise not sure wat the problem is all ignition is new parts and checked the wiring, Im not even sure if this will cause the misfire but I do have some new 42# injectors waiting to be installed but require a tune and until I get the codes and misfire out of the way, no tuning will be going on. Thanks for any input and help.

Is there anyway I could check to see if the timing chain jumped without tearing down the front of the engine?

 

Did you read my first post, with reference to the possibility of the coolant temp sensor causing your problem? Its like you totally ignored it

 

That will cause a misfire? Sorry I missed it but what does that have to do with it? That probably has something to do with it getting hot but its says its hot but the engine is ACTUALLY HOT or its hotter than its reading. Let me know. Is that the sensor in the heads or the one in the water pump?

 

Kinda wierd because the coolant code wasnt there when I scanned it last time and it was running the same, not sure wat it has to do with the car misfiring.

 

So if I understand correctly, the coolant temp sensor will cause the car to read that it is running hot and will dump fuel to cool it down to cause it to run richer + it will retard timing when it doesnt need to causing it to run like **** and also making it backfire. Correct?

Only thing Im wondering is that the coolant temp code just came, and the car ran like **** before and it only had the 1351.

 

I had a hard time passing emissions tests, ran rich and car ran hot, my fans would not come off. Changed Coolant sensor ($25) and it cured all my problems!

 

P0118 Fixed! I went and looked at it, the wire was just sliced somehow, put it back together, it runs smoother, and starts easier but still gets hot and at certain rpm's etc it hesitates and stumbles really bad. So thats the 1351.

P1351 so if thats high voltage, wat exactly can I do to pinpoint this? ICM is new.

Well my case is different, it is misfiring so bad that it is making the car run hot, even with the ECT running correctly.

 

The 1351 is the Ignition Control(IC) circuit from the PCM to the ICM. It commands the ICM to fire the coil. In the case of a 1351, this wire is above 4.6 volts when it should be at 0 volts. The IC line is the white wire that runs from the black PCM connector pin 5 to the ICM.

Also, 1 more question:

Will the P1351 cause the misfire??????? I just wanna get rid of the code, if it doesnt get rid of the misfire, I dont really care because that would mean the mis is from injectors or fuel or something, I recently put in a new fuel pump, then i could get my car tuned because I have new injectors. I searched and some guy said the wiring to his fuel pump set the P1351, as in it was loose or something, and would die randomly and not start. My car would do the same, but doesnt anymore.

 

Your broken coolant temp wire caused the PCM to think the engine coolant temp was -40*F. It was pouring extra fuel into the engine for cold start enrichment. Since the coolant temp never went up, it stayed in open loop and ran pig rich.

This will make the engine misfire. Its also possible that running excessively rich has fouled your plugs and possiblydamaged the O2 sensors. It may have washed the oil off the cylinder walls, and diluted the oil. You need to check the oil for fuel/thinning.

I'm not sure how much more clearly I could have stated:
I'm trying to help you, but I only have so much time to spend, and I would prefer to spend it helping people who read what I write.

 

lol, i read but i guess it didnt stick, but thanks. I fixed the P0118 but still misfires, ill try to replace the plugs and check the oil, but i just changed it so i think it could still be alright. If the o2s are damaged will it throw a code? Thanks for the help man.