This code started coming up and my MPG went down. I went ahead and bought another used MAF, swamped it in, and the code still persists.

When the code is cleared and I try to start the car it will run for about a second and turn off...try and start again, run for 1 second turn off, try to start again run for 1 second and turn off. Then finally on the 4th try it will start and put he SES light back on. Once the SES light is on it will start up every time, only when I clear it is when it has problems.

I have tried cleaning both MAF's w/ the designated MAF cleaner..No help.

It appears it may be a wiring problem, but would that cause the starting issue?

I recently did a head swamp/LT install. There is also no diff in how the car run if I have the MAF plugged in or not. I'm guessing something is wrong w/ the connector?

I remember when the problem first started, I was driving on the expressway and all the sudden the revs started going everywhere and I pulled off. Car still ran, got back in and kept driving but seemed like it was down on power.

 

Have you checked for 12v voltage issues on the pink wire to the MAF?

 

No, I am planning on doing that this weekend. Is that really the only tell tale sign of MAF wiring problem?

 

No the only problem that it could be but 2000x more likely then any other.

I ended up running a wire from the fuse box (air fuse i think it was) to the maf because i didnt want to mess around with pulling the entire pink wire out

 

I have a 97ss M6. I lost a MAF once and it was a bad O2 sensor heater circuit. GM fuses the heater circuit on the MAF circuit. Are you blowing fuses??? I found the bad O2 sensor (4 of them on OBD2 96 and 97), and, cut the heater wire. Installed a new 20 amp fuse and it was OK. It took a little longer for the O2 to come online and go to closed loop mode. But, ran OK. I unplugged all the O2 sensors to find the problem because they would all ring short with a digital VOM. Hope this helps. B.

 

Ok, tested w/ a volt meter, pink to black gives me 0 volts. pink to yellow gives me 5.

Does this mean the pink or the black wire is probably bad? Also is it possible to take apart the pigtail or do I need to buy a new one and splice it in?

 

You need to trace the pink wire back to where you are losing the voltage.

 

Whats the best way to do that? Im pretty sure its inside the pigtail that it got disconnected...I hope, otherwise thats going to be a mess.

I was thinking about cutting the pig tail off and checking the wires that way, I just ordered a new pigtail off ebay.

 

whoa there. You are putting the cart before the horse. Did you check the Eng. Sensor fuse #10 (20A UH panel)like mzgp5x mentioned earlier???? He also told you why that fuse blows very often. An O2 heater wire touching ground or a hot exhaust pipe.

Second when you measured from black to pink and got nothing, the next thing you should have done was check the black wire to battery positive to confirm the black wire is grounded properly. Measuring the pink to yellow tells you nothing. Then depending on what that shows, check the pink wire to battery negative. Capish?

Last note of interest. The pink wire goes from the fuse I mentioned through C105 then splits at a splice to several items one if which is the MAF. C105 is black 8 pin connector near the PCM.

I'm willing to bet you have a bad engine sensor fuse.

 

Yep it was the fuse...god damnit. I think it has something to do w/ my homemade o2 extensions. I made them when I did the headers about 5 months ago, didnt have a problem until now. I replaced the fuse and it didn't blow again...maby I will just wait and see.

 

Sounds like a similar problem to me, ill need to through a volt meter on my car this weekend and see if im having the same problem.