They are calibrated for the increased cross sectional area of the housing at the location where the sensor is located. From what I have seen, there is no need to adjust the MAF tables or recalibrate the sensor when removing the screen. Adjusting MAF tables or recalibrating the sensor is only needed when changing the inside diameter of the MAF housing at the location of the sensor... not for removing the screen, IMO.

 

Question is....is it worth screwing with your MAF and possibly messing it up for a 1hp gain thats not not going to make a difference on a 1\4 mile run with all other variables considered.

The screen is there to help keep the airflow constant and even across the sensor wire . I might add it also does offer some protection from debre if it should enter the intake track....I have found a small bug or 2 on it before(its not designed with this in mind though)

I do agree that it should be removed for forced air apps.

 

Certainly. It takes only a few minutes... ok, an hour at most to determine if it is going to work for you or not. If it doesn't work, you stick it back in. Once you get done with many of the basic bolt on mods, the $$$ to hp ratio goes up and up. If I can get ~1 hp for 30 minutes or less of work with no negative affects, I'll do it

The "even" air flow is probably why it is there to begin with but for me, I didn't notice the sensor picking up "uneven" air flow with the screen removed so in my case, it doesn't seem to have made a difference in how well the sensor works so to speak. It providing extra protection from large debris getting in the intake is valid. For me, I just make sure my filter is on good and tight

This confuses me a little. In a forced induction application it is extremely important to make sure everything is working in order and correctly and the sensors report accurate information. So it would seem that if a person thinks the screen should be left alone then they should have even a stronger opinion about leaving it in there for a forced induction application, no?

I really think this whole thing boils down to this...

1. If you aren't comfortable doing this, then don't do it.
2. If you'd like to try it, try it and if it doesn't work, put it back in.

 

I am saying its unchannel, which cause lots of turbulence. Which cause MAF to show more then, its actually going in.

Its not only un-hanneled, but its also caussing MAF read more then its actually going.
What? What did you just try to say. I'm not following you at all.
Besides, isn't this where a blm lock comes into play. If you use a blm lock than you have repeatable fueling at wot. O2 input is not used at wot anyways. The computer uses the PE tables...and as long as the blm is locked @ 128...they shouldn't have any effect on your PE. That is the whole point of the lock, isn't it...repeatability? Now I'm off somewhere else...

Maybe I'm wrong on some of the little details...but I'm pretty sure I've got the right idea here.
If you guys want to port and descreen and stuff go ahead...better yet, trade your stock stuff to someone who doesn't want their ported stuff since their car runs poorly with it. [/B][/QUOTE]

Your PE setting comes from your Regular tables. its basically 15% richer, and it uses O2 to get you ideal 12.1 (Max power ratio). Hence if your actall/regular table is screwed up. So you may get richer on lower RPM but too lean at Higher RPM. I hope it clears up the air now

 

Whats so confuseing about that? I do agree that it is a restriction to air flow....but not so much that it hurts an NA app more than 1hp as you have stated you might gain. In a forced air app your gains by removing the screen should be much higher than 1hp. (Im just speaking intuitively here as I have no hard data to back this up) .

Im just saying pulling the screen out for 1hp isnt worth it to me....even though some people have had no problems at all. Its nice to see you have some hard data though . All I can go on is the countless post of people having problems after descreening

 

Yes, PE is derived from your PE tables. 15% richer, maybe. Depends on what you set the tables up at. But if you're saying that PE uses your O2's in order to obtain a certain a/f ratio you're wrong. PE does not use the O2's...it uses the PE tables to get a desired a/f ratio. There is no feedback from the O2's.

No, not really. But the BLM will clear up the "richer on lower rpm" stuff. That's what it does.

I still don't understand what you're trying to say about the PE tables...so I give up. That isn't what this thread is about anyways.

To the person that started this thread, opinions are going to vary and everybody has their own. If you want to pull the screen(s) go ahead and do it and see how your car reacts. As Brent said, you can always put them back in.
As far as porting the ends goes, do it if you want or trade your stock ones to someone that doesn't want their ported ends. Easy as that.

 

Mass Air Flow Sensor

 

This is a Year old thread

 

sorry kinda new to this, just searchin around and found this, didnt read into it much before reply. just started typing...

 

i wonder if this web site has a way to contact problem seekers when the problem or situation is conquered. That way the message and all atributes could be erased, relating to it. I will suggest that to the heirarchy. thanks , andy

 

DO it, running ported maf ends, don't notice anything wrong.

 

Just try it, if you have problems put it back in. It's that simple. BTW I did it first thing when I bought my Z and noticed no difference, didn't have any problems either.

 

IMO the MAF sensor is not an area to go looking for extra power. Get headers, CAI, catback, cam... whatever else but leave the MAF alone. You have very 2 crutial elements in a strong running motor... that is spark and fuel. The MAF sensor is what determines how much fuel to supply so why risk screwing it up? So what if you gain 2 hp... its not like you would ever FEEL the difference and on a dyno a 2 hp varience is quite common. But do what you want... its your money you throwing away if you break the MAF, not mine.

 

the aftermarket one doesnt ocme with a screen because they save on cost...

 

dude...get real. how much cash do you think it possibly takes to make a screen and fit it into the mass air sensor?

take it out, careful like everyone else said. dont worry about gas mileage, if you were worried about it in the first place you shouldn't have bought a gas guzzeling V8.

do a search on the topic about reprograming the computer with a different or modified MAF. There is a really interesting thread that is going to (hopefully soon) compare a stock MAF, a ported and de-screened MAF, and a Gran. MAF.