I just received my mac headers and y pipe, which is almost perfect if i decide to do them myself cuz I dont have anything to do during the day tomorrow, so id like some quick answers on this, how long should i plan on this taking? I was sort of tossing around the idea of starting the install tonight, and hopefully finishing tomorrow night. Would this be possible or am I hoping for too much? The only problem is I dont have a hi flow cat at the moment, but I could most likely go out and pick one up tomorrow morning somewhere.

Thanks in advance,
Bob

 

Well do you have all the gaskets and stuff? Also yeah you should be able to do it in 1 day. If i were you i would spray all the bolts real good. Let it sit for about 1 hr. Then spray it again and try to get the manifold bolts loose and all of the other stuff that you need to take off to do the job. Then spray the bolts 1 more time so they are nice and lubed up. Don't stay up to late though, that way you can get up really early and start on it. This way all the bolts will be alot easier to get off and you won't get as frustrated with the car. Good luck though.

 

"

Are there some good writeups available online with some pictures?

 

I couldn't find one for macs or for your year. This is a really nice writup. It is for AS&M midlengths. But the concept is the same.

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/headers.html

 

Yeah it gives me a good idea of what ill be looking for and doing. But now i dont think ill be starting it tonight because I dont have somebody to help me out and would rather not do it myself. Hopefully this weekend instead

weekend forecast: high in the mid 40s... ouch

 

If you have air tools it won't take as long. But you will have to use ratchets and extensions to get the stock manifolds off. The bolts are under the manifolds, so get ready for some bruised hands. Putting the headers in themselves isn't bad since you'll have some room to work. Putting the dipstick tube back in took me hours since it wouldn't go back in (I ended up breaking it and having to get another one). IF, and I say IF, everything goes smooth you can do it in a day if you start early and work almost non-stop.

BTW, be sure to get a 1 5/8" U-clamp to use on the driver's side slip tube since the one that comes with them is junk and won't clamp the tube good enough. I ended up just welding the primary together to stop it from leaking. And make SURE you torque the nuts on the y-pipe good cause they WILL work loose if you don't (mine did and lost one).

Good luck

 

It's pretty straight forward, however if this is your first time doing this, expect to run into delays. It took me about an hour and a half to get the manifolds off completely, which also included dropping the Y-Pipe and taking it all apart. Universal Swivel Sockets are your friend here.

You have to remove the Oil Dipstick, and that's a little bit of a pain. Be careful as you don't want to break it, but use enough force to get it loose. I held it with a pair of vice grips and tapped it out with a small hammer to jar it loose.

Other than that, the headers should go on pretty straight forward. You should really upgrade to Taylor OVC wires while you're at it. Any questions feel free to e-mail me.

 

Yeah im in on a gp for taylor ovc's right now but we need a couple more people... I was just going to try and make sure they werent touching, and replace them when i get them

 

There will be a point that it will be a good idea when to lift your engine up via the oil pan, use a piece of wood under there. Remove the pass side motor mount bolt. In order to get it out you have to 1st unbolt it and then jack up the oil pan a bit to relieve the pressure on the bolt.

This will give you a few inches of much needed space.

The alternator comes out as does the starter, I just unbolted and stuffed it somewhere didnt undo the wires. I also sawed off the exaust pipes to the mainfords so I didnt have to deal with the 3 bolts per side(Rusted).

On pass side there is a EGR small pipe that attaches to the manifold buy a single bolt. I broke mine but no biggie there.

When you do the slip tube make sure you put some sealant in there or it will leak. I'll have to try the different U-Clamp. Also make sure thereis no steering plastic pieces touching the headers, I burnt one of mine.

Finally check spark plug wires and tie wrap them out of the way. I checked and after 1 day burnt one. I ziptied everything and all better.

It took me a few days but I didnt rush anything.

 

*shrug*

I didn't have to jack the engine up at all.

And as far as rusted bolts, I sprayed down every exhaust bolt with PB Blaster, which was like $2.50 from NAPA. It is a catalyst that kinda eats rust or something, well whatever it is it definitely made it a ton easier to take off.

I also used an electric torque gun to remove the bolts, so that helped too.