LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

M6 Clutch Install - what parts are necessary??

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Old Apr 15, 2003 | 06:00 AM
  #1  
CCRJon's Avatar
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M6 Clutch Install - what parts are necessary??

I am going to be replacing my clutch in my Formula in the upcoming weeks / months. I would like to get some information from all the experienced people that frequent this site.
I am going to be replacing my M6 Clutch.

What other parts SHOULD i have the mechanic replace when I change my clutch? All the other posts I've looked at (searched for weeks) mention a helluva lot of parts. Which ones should I buy for the mechanic? Here is the list of things I've seen people replace. (Does anyone feel like being long winded and explaining the function of these parts? I have no idea what half these things do anyway.)

Clutch Release Bearing
Clutch Pilot Bearing
Clutch Pilot Bushing
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Oil Pan Gasket Set - I know I'll need these
Rear Main Seal

I know as well that my pick tube fell off of my oil pump. I'll be having the machanic weld the pickup back on the pump, OR SHOULD I GET A NEW OIL PUMP?

Thanks for all the info
CCRJon
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 07:15 AM
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95m6's Avatar
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By, clutch release bearing I'm assuming thats another name for a throw-out bearing? I've never heard it called that though.

Only other thing you'll need is to have the flywheel resurfaced after you get it all apart.
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 07:21 AM
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You won't need the pilot bushing and pilot bearing. The LT1s use a pilot bearing.

Also, the rear main seal is easily replaced without moving the oil pan (I assume you need the oil pan gasket due to a leak in the gasket sealing surface).

I also replaced the flywheel bolts(ARP, $10) and rear pinion seal($4) while I had everything out.

Good luck!
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:02 PM
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ttt
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:12 PM
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hsyr's Avatar
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Re: M6 Clutch Install - what parts are necessary??

Originally posted by CCRJon

Clutch Release Bearing
Clutch Pilot Bearing
Clutch Pilot Bushing
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Oil Pan Gasket Set - I know I'll need these
Rear Main Seal
OR SHOULD I GET A NEW OIL PUMP?
Thanks for all the info
CCRJon

Clutch Release Bearing <-- That comes with new clutch doesn it?
Clutch Pilot Bearing <-- Don't need to replace but good Idea
Clutch Pilot Bushing <-- ? Don't bother
Clutch Master Cylinder <-- If yours is working just fine save ur $
Clutch Slave Cylinder <-- Read above
Oil Pan Gasket Set - I know I'll need these
Rear Main Seal <-- If yours is leaking then do it!

OR SHOULD I GET A NEW OIL PUMP? <-- Personally I would just
get a new oil pump, but
thats just me
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:18 PM
  #6  
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Be aware of the pilot bearing. There are mixed thoughts on it, but from my previous experience I will never put a roller bearing in again. Mine failed and cut a groove in the input shaft after less than 7000 miles.

The way I look at it is the more parts to fail....the more parts to fail.
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:39 PM
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I did this a couple weeks ago. Only thing I replaced was the Pilot bushing. It's hammered into teh end of the crankshaft, and allows a place for the snout of the tranny input shaft a place to ride in. As far as I know, you can use a bearing or a bushing, I guess it's personal preference. But they had both for my car.

You're having a mechanic do this for you you said right?

I didn't have to replace anything else.

Here's some pics that might help you out:

Crank w/ pilot bushing. Don't mind the wet TP, that was used to compress to hydraulicly force the old Pilot bushing out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...h/bushing1.jpg

Crank w/o the pilot bushing:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...h/bushing6.jpg

This shows a worn out Pilot Bushing. You can see how worn it is by the fact that the crank side didn't wear down, and you can see it since the closer part wore out.
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...crank-rear.jpg

Here's the clutch cylinder:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...h/cylinder.jpg

Back shot of the engine, pretty boring:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ngine-back.jpg

Here's the old clutch:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...old-clutch.jpg

Here's the old Pressure Plate:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...tch/old-pp.jpg

Flywheel before turning:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...d-flywheel.jpg

Shot of the shifter taken out:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ifter_hole.jpg

Backside of the Pressure Plate. You can see the Throwout bearing in the middle there. These clutches are a pull type. That plastic piece in the middle with the loop is the alignment tool.
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...utch/spec2.jpg

You can see the tip of the input shaft that rides in the pilot bushing:
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...nny-clean1.jpg

All ya need to get the tranny out!
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/...ch/garage2.jpg



Hope this helps you out some man.
Old Apr 15, 2003 | 02:42 PM
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Originally posted by chevroletfreak
Be aware of the pilot bearing. There are mixed thoughts on it, but from my previous experience I will never put a roller bearing in again. Mine failed and cut a groove in the input shaft after less than 7000 miles.

The way I look at it is the more parts to fail....the more parts to fail.
That is the way I looked at it as well. It would seem a bearing would have some type of a bit less rolling resistance or whatever, but I went with the idea that a bushing would be just fine. Nothing to break!

FWIW, the first time the tranny came out, it took me 2 nights. 2nd time, About 1.5 hours, and that was screwing off!
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:02 AM
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Get the pilot bushing NOT the bearing. I put a bearing in my last May..now I,m replacing it because its nothing but dust now. Biggest piece I found were 2 rollar bearings in the actuator cover.
Bushing is cheaper as well.
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 09:28 AM
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FYI - The only time the bushing/bearing is used is when you have the clutch pushed in. (Not very often).

Just more info to aid in the decision.
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 10:33 AM
  #11  
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I debated using the bushing (kit had both parts) but the factory piece was the bearing and I figured with 108,000 miles on it, the bearing should be reliable enough.

Also, like chevroletfreak said, it's only used a very small percentage of the time.

Of course, it'll fail next month and I'll regret this post!
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 10:35 AM
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i did mine last week. all i needed was the disk pressureplate and throwout. (well and the trans fluid) and had the flywheel resurfaced for 35$.


wasnt near as hard to do as i thought it would be.. very smooth easy install... just have fun getting the top bolts off the bell of the trans to the block.. those are fun ones
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 11:38 AM
  #13  
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ok.... here's the list of what I used:

SLP lt4 PP
Factory GM Disk
Advance Auto Teflon Rear Main Seal
Advance Auto Pilot Bushing
5 qts Mobil 1 Syn ATF

I also replaced the flywheel bolts but that isn't necessiary. Also a Master/Slave Cylinder isn't really necessiary unless you're talking about a McLoud twin-**** setup, and I believe it comes with that.

Remember to get the flywheel turned though, that's necessiary with a new clutch.
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 12:07 PM
  #14  
93Z286Speed's Avatar
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i recomend the use of Honda Z1 ATF fluid in the trans
Old Apr 16, 2003 | 12:12 PM
  #15  
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Originally posted by chevroletfreak
Be aware of the pilot bearing. There are mixed thoughts on it, but from my previous experience I will never put a roller bearing in again. Mine failed and cut a groove in the input shaft after less than 7000 miles.

The way I look at it is the more parts to fail....the more parts to fail.
just happened to me. one of the little needle bearings got into my clutch and scared the hell out of the flywheel.



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