I recently did a preventative install of an LTCC (before my opti quit) and was dismayed when the car ran like crap afterwords. (3 red blinking lights = bad low or high res signal)
Well I finally got it working fine, I first solved the poor signal problem by moving the signal wire harness away from the alternator as it was leaning against the case after inserting the LTCC harness. This is the only thing I changed and it fixed that problem.
Next I changed to a 93 Impalla 140 amp alternator, this got my voltages up at idle (previously marginal due to excessive load on my stock one from underdrive pullies, CSI pump, stereo, fans on at 160°...).
Finally I plan to install a relay today for the coil pacs because I'm reading nearly a 2 volt drop at the coils due to all of the current for the coils trying to go through the one small (18 gauge?) factory wire.
I'm using the coils from a 2000 5.3 Vortec mounted on a plate which I located on top of the intake. From there my Taylor wires make a short run directly to the plugs (no more header burns!).
I like my LTCC but I think Bob has missed the boat by not improving his documentation (shameful) and refining his product over time (I don't like the cut and splice required). I just got my latest issue of GMHTP and they are doing an install of a DELTEQ unit, that could have been Bob's LTCC if he'd kept up. The DELTEQ looks superior in every way except that it still requires excessively long plug wires and routing.

 

Seems some people prefer the LTCC over the delteq and vice versa. Comparison in price the delteq seems the better way to go. Stage 2 of that system comes out and it'll be the route to go.

GMHTP came out w/ another issue already? I know of the special edition released w/ Hot Rod magazine but I thought the next issue was due til next month? What's the date on the mag and the front page look like so I can keep an eye out for it.

 

I much rather prefer 8 cool looking coils over 4 massive ugly coils & the long wires, my engine bay looks killer IMO with the LTCC, but the cut-plice can be eliminated by buying the MSD box harness, I'm working on a cool looking box to make the LTCC look nicely pluged in So far you can't tell though & I love it how it looks all factory.

BTW I fixed my problem also by replacing the alternator & moving away the wires when I had the 3 blinks, I used a 94 140amp 9c1(impala) alternator.

So your going to run a relay to supply the 12 volts to the LTCC is that what your refering to? What was the reading when you tested it as apposed to the rest of the system voltage?

matt.

 

Bunker the delteq coils aren't that ugly. You have any pics of your setup? I'd like to see it. I'll agree shorter wires are a nicety w/ the LTCC system. But I'd rather not see the coils anyways. That's just more junk in the bay IMO and it's cramped as it is even w/out emissions crap removed. So I run longer wires....so what. Still looks factory.

 

~14.5V at the battery, ~12.5 at the coils (was 13.5 and 11.5 before the Alt change), thats why I'm going to install a relay and just use the fctory wire to activate it.
My eyebrows raised when I first read the instructions that came with the LTCC stating "you need to replace the factory 10 amp ignition fuse, start by increasing it to a 20 amp". I don't know about the rest of you, but my basic electronics taught me to never increase the size of a fuse unless your sure the existing wire can handle the increased load, obviously if I'm dropping 2 volts it can't, and that 2 volts is just generating heat in the wiring or burning contacts in the ignition.

 

You have to understand that the voltage drop isn't occuring at the LTCC, the drop occurs throughout the system, the biggest load is the fuel pump, if you run a relay to the fuel pump & use the stock harness to activate it you'll notice that your system voltage will go up by 1+ volts, before my fuel pump relay I used to show 12.4-12.6 in Datamaster while scanning, after the relay to the fuel pump I'm showing 14.2 at start up, & when the car warms up around 13.6-13.8 there abouts constant, by taking the LTCC off you'll prolly offload the system even more, so yeah I'll prolly do the same thing with the LTCC aswell.

 

I have had ZERO problems with my LTCC since the install a couple of months ago and my 95Z has the original stock alt.

ZBLKHELLRZR, sent you a PM about some pic's I have of my install.

-Tony

 

I am getting the same 3 blink error. 93Z4ME, I tried your fix with no luck. "(3 red blinking lights = bad low or high res signal)
Well I finally got it working fine, I first solved the poor signal problem by moving the signal wire harness away from the alternator as it was leaning against the case after inserting the LTCC harness. This is the only thing I changed and it fixed that problem."
My car runs fine, but if there is an issue with the low or high res signal i don't want to run my car, especially at high rpm. Anyone else know of any other possibilities?

 

Interestingly, the same problem exists with the Delteq. In the Cadillac, the Northstar coil pak fuse is a 20 amp fuse. In the LT1 it is 10 amp.
So, I already put a water proof fuse holder, a 15 amp fuse, and a water proof relay with a 12 gauge wire. I did it for the same reasons stated above. Each Northstar coil can draw 9 amps (the ignition module current limits them at 9 amps), and if you rev high enough two coils can be drawing current at the same time. So, the peak current can exceed the fuse rating. The fuse won't blow because it responds to RMS (Root Means Square) current not peak current. But, voltage will drop across the wiring and the 10 amp fuse at peak current draw. So, you will not have full voltage at the coils.

Tom Piper

 

I had went through 3 optis in 5K miles... then went with the LTCC with a buddy's orginal '97 opti and has worked great for 2-1/2 years

 

I also realized that my CSI and ltcc are creating to much heat and burned one of the contacts on the ign fuse, which cause my car to shut off on my way to school one day. I have the csi hooked up to the ign. fuse and the racetronix fuel pump hooked up to the back of my alt. Can you explain to me how a seperate relay is going to help w/ the heat and voltage drop?? thx
-brandon

 

By using a seperate relay for your CSI pump, it would not be pulling its power through the IGN fuse. It would pull power directly from the battery. I just use the IGN power to activate the the relay (which takes very little power) for my Meziere.

 

Hey guys, just wanted to drop in and say hi.

To respond to a couple things, I will apologize for the thin documentation. I have been meaning to revise and improve the instructions for some time now. One friend has done some work to improve them and I will publish that soon. I need to add more pictures and details as well.

We have looked into making the system more plug-and-play, and there are a few changes that are possible. The EST connection could have a connector. The power wires connect differently depending on the year of the vehicle so that gets more difficult. Generally we have tried to make the system very universal so that the distributors don't have to stock several different units.

On the fuse: the vehicle wiring is more than capable of handling the LTCC coil currents, the fuse upgrade is required since the LTCC can charge several coils at once which is right on the edge of the stock fuse's capabilities. I would NOT recommend running something like a CSI from the ignition fuse circuit. Electric motors have a very high current draw at start-up which will cause you headaches if you feed it from a marginal source.

Drop me a line guys if you have some more suggestions to improve/expand the unit.

Regards,

TurboBob

 

Did any of you get the relay setup like you were talking about? I would like to see it and hear how it worked out.