Lemme go get my manual and look things over. Do you have the coils grounded VERY well? I connected them all together (on each side) and ran 10 gauge down each bank to the front of the driv side cylinder head and grounded it there.

How do you have them grounded?

 

I know we're becoming redundant here but just trying to help. Are you certain you have the gray/black harness hooked into the opti wire properly where it runs along between the passenger side head and intake? Just a thought. I'm not familiar enough with the difference between the '95 and '97 to know what might be differenc wiring wise.

 

Drivers side is grounded to the front of the head, passenger side is grounded at the grounding terminal block behind the battery I believe. Either way that shouldn't throw the CPU error code.

It's not redundant man, were looking for anything to try. The harness your talking about is plug n play. You'd have to be that kid in pre school that got the rectangle into the square hole to mess that up. As of now, were at a loss. Personally, with this stuff and the direct port under the hood, there's way to much clutter. I tried to tell him to sell it, but I think he's hell bent on making it work. And to think, we haven't even started with the nitrous wiring or the progressive controller. This is why I choose N/A.

 

The Haynes manual says for a 96-97 the ICM colors should be white, black, pink, and dark green.

The way you are describing your setup the green or the yellow with the stripe has to be the EST that feeds that white wire of the LTCC box (process of elimination since you found the switched 12v and ground)

Are you positive the coils are getting power? You hook them up to the switched 12v going to the coil, not the ICM.

 

We were using the yellow as the EST to feed the white wire. The 2 wires that went to the coil are the same color as the wires coming into the ICM. Orange and dark green. When I placed the volt meter on continuity, I checked between the orange on the ICM to the orange from the coil. It buzzed. Same with the green from the ICM and coil. This tells me there the same wire (coil and or ICM, shouldn't matter) and shouldn't make a diffrence as to which one the pink from the LTCC ties to????

 

Hadn't looked close enough to see if they were the same or not. But you're right if they are the same then it shouldn't matter. Try testing for power at the coils (should just be the pink one in the harness that runs to each individual coil)

Other things to check (I know we're getting pretty basic here)
- Is the harness plugged in to the LTCC box and tighten down using the bolt?
- Are the coils connected on the proper side? (IE don't have pass and driv side switched)
- Did you already replace the ignition fuse with a bigger one?

 

Hadn't looked close enough to see if they were the same or not. But you're right if they are the same then it shouldn't matter. Try testing for power at the coils (should just be the pink one in the harness that runs to each individual coil)

Other things to check (I know we're getting pretty basic here)
- Is the harness plugged in to the LTCC box and tighten down using the bolt?
- Are the coils connected on the proper side? (IE don't have pass and driv side switched)
- Did you already replace the ignition fuse with a bigger one?

 

I don't know if this will help but I undid mine to show another guy having some trouble. Maybe this pic will show a little better how the two pinks connect into the pink (or whatever your color is) wire in the gray plug and the white into the one with the black plug.

 

His car dosen't have the grey and the black plug that go to the coil. Just a single plug that goes into the newer style OBD2 coil. As of now, I think were getting away from the fundamentals. I think we should be looking for why we have a CPU error light in the LTCC box. Fire or no fire, we shouldn't have a code. We know we have power going into the LTCC box because th elights inside it work, so, givin we did hook up the correct signal wire to the white LTCC wire, why are we getting the error code? Does CPU error mean a error with our PCM or a error in the LTCC box?

 

Where are you getting that it is a PCU error? I don't see anything in Bob's instructions that list such a thing. This is all that it lists:

"LED’s
Green: ON= Sync, The LTCC has correctly decoded the optispark signals and is controlling the ignition.
Red: Error Indicator, Blinks to indicate Detected Errors. (Lights up for 1 second as Power On Self - Test)
1 Blink = Cylinder Decode Sequence Error.
2 Blink = Wrong number of Hi-Res pulses counted between Lo-Res rising edges
3 Blink = Wrong number of Hi-Res pulses counted during a High Lo-Res pulse or Low Lo-Res Pulse.
4 Blink = EST Signal from PCM = Missed Pulse. Check connection to White wire (External Rev-Limiter devices must not be used.)"

As far as getting away from the fundamentals, it never hurts to check the other things that we listed.

 

As far as I know the blinking green does not indicate an error other than the fact that it is trying to read and connect and can't do it. All the error codes that Bob lists are blinking red lights. That's why I was focusing on the connection wire issue.

 

Have you reset the PCM ie pulled the battery and started from scratch?

 

When I get home from work I will check the voltage on the coils. But the directions I have from bob are that I should be looking for a solid green light on the LTCC that means everthing checks ok, and if I get a blinking green light it is a CPU error this is from the directions that came from Bob. Then he goes on to list the red light problems just as you have listed. We do get red lights when we try hooking up other wires so It seems that we have it hooked up right but just no spark and no solid green light. What kind of voltage should I have on the pink wires that go to the coils?
Personally I dont mind triple checking the fundamentals because it is such a simple system I cant beleave it is causing me so much trouble to get it going.

Clint

 

Hopefully you guys don't think I'm being honory by the things I say. I just figured the blinking green light should be the first of the problems to be solved. Nothing will work if it isn't solid green. Bob's instructions list "solid green, good to go", "continuous blinking green, then you have a CPU error". If the LTCC control box can't get a reading, then nothings gunna work, so I was starting with the basics. We do appreciate any help. Thanks

 

Ah we all get difficult to work with sometimes

As far as the CPU error, since none of us actually know what causes that, checking EVERYTHING wouldn't hurt haha.

Is the box mounted to the car or just sitting there?

Give us an update tomorrow.