LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT4 hotcam kit installed, and problems after

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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 10:31 PM
  #31  
knta4dnu's Avatar
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From: Spring Hill, Florida
L98 in the later '80's had roller lifters too.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:42 PM
  #32  
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From: Jackstandican
Originally Posted by 06lingenfelter
wow you guys r dumb, any real mechanic will know the real procedure but i dont expect you kids to know yet. im a certified mechanic im sure your just young and dumb and im not wasteing my time anymore.
Yeesh...
I know ASE certified mechanics that I wouldn't let change my oil. All that means is that you can take and pass a test. Congratulations. If you want to flaunt that then why are you asking for help for something as simple as engine removal?
Basically your heart is in the right place. It's cool you are on fire for tech type stuff, but you need not take everything you read or hear as gospel truth. Get some experience under your belt and you'll see what I mean. I have a 1993-96 F-body Haynes manual that states to apply sealant around the waterjackets of the intake. How foolish would I have been to get on here and preach that to be the truth and call people "u r dumb/young and dumb..." who didn't believe it?
Now... for the other matter... roller lifters/roller cams do not need to be "broken in". This is quite a shocker, but roller valvetrain components can be switched around as well as long as the valvetrain is healthy are there are not premature wear patterns anywhere.
Basically the only thing that needs to be "broken in" on a modern roller valvetrain engine are bearings and rings.
Old Aug 10, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #33  
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well just for kicks and giggles, i tried some 20W-50 VR1 racing oil, it brought it up to 10 psi hot idle (40 psi cold idle), 30 cruising, 40-50 about 4-5000 rpms. These were from a mechanical gauge. I know i probably atleast wore a bearing a little, but theres still no main or rod knock, just some lifter noise, so im gonna pull the intake this weekend and see whats going on. What do you guys think?
Old Aug 10, 2007 | 11:25 AM
  #34  
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Pull the motor before you do any real damage. Something is wrong and when it goes out later it's going to cost more money. Nip it in the *** right now.

Did you take your time with the cam install?
Old Aug 10, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #35  
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From: ..behind you with a butter knife
10psi per 1000rpms is acceptable



we will see how well that goes over with everyone
Old Aug 10, 2007 | 05:44 PM
  #36  
'94 Bad A Z28's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Sparkz28ss
10psi per 1000rpms is acceptable



we will see how well that goes over with everyone



GM spec is 8psi/1000rpm.
Old Aug 11, 2007 | 03:59 PM
  #37  
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edited

Last edited by Explodinggopher; Aug 11, 2007 at 05:21 PM.
Old Aug 11, 2007 | 05:17 PM
  #38  
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ok i let it idle a little and pured some oil over the rockers but after a few minutes there was some oil seeping out of the pushrods so its ok, noise is gone (the RRs were hitting the VC's, fixed now) the valvetrain is nice and quiet. Still have 10psi hot idle with 20W50 VR1 racing oil, 30 spi at 2000 rpms, 40 at 3000. The psi at cruising looks fine to me, still not what it was before, but its just that idle psi with 20W50 that i don't like. No unusual noises. Anybody????? Bueller??? Bueller???

Last edited by Explodinggopher; Aug 11, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
Old Aug 11, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #39  
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Sounds good to me.


ROLLER LIFTERS DO NOT ROTATE!!
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