thats from the GM manual and i will listen to that any day over what you have you have to say. no offense im just saying.

 

Camshaft Break-In Procedures

Coat the camshaft lobes & distributor gear with an EP lubrication such as CL400 "Cam Guard" or a moly-paste.
Apply the EP lubricant only to the lifter contact faces - not the bores.
Prime the lube system using new oil and filter.
Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings.
Do not use non-detergent oils, they do not have the anti-scuff additives found in modern detergent oils.
Start the engine and increase the RPM's to 1500-2000. Operate the engine for 15-20 minutes at this speed. The higher speeds increase splash lubrication and decrease nose loading.
Avoid excessive cranking, no start donations and fuel/ignition adjustments. The break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure. If the engine fails to start within 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to re-apply the EP lubricant to the lobes.
If possible, following break-in, the idle should be adjusted to high specifications.

 

and that one is just from a website i found. looks like there is a break procedure.

 

Yes that is the correct procedure for breaking in a cam,a flat tappet cam.Not a roller cam,a roller cam does not need to be broken in.

 

yep, you're still wrong, if your lifters rotate in thier bores with a roller cam you're gonna have 9 kinds of hardened glitter and needle bearings in your oil pan. the reasoning for cam breakin on flat tappets is to keep everything lubed and not take out the taper on the cam lobe or the crown on the lifter. if you do that the lifter wont spin and you're sunk and end up with a flat lobe. i believe somewhere on the howards cams website they have a diagram if you care to see how the lifters are rotated in a flat tappet engine. the "dogbone" configuration in oe rollers and the link bar lifters in retro-fit systems are there specificly to stop the rotation of the roller lifters because its an immediate failure when it happens i know i've seen the dog bones fail at the job before and it is NOT pretty.

 

whatever i know im right because its straight from the GM manual. a ROLLER CAMSHAFT still needs to be "BROKEN IN". i will stick with my GM manual. not some tool that thinks hes right, no offense.

 

yeah, I broke mine in after I saved up enough money after ^ 06 stole my valvetrain money. glad I could help fund you cam project...dick

 

(c) Note: Roller tappet cams don?t require any break-in. You can use roller lifters over again on a new cam if they are in good condition. There will be, of course, no lifter or pushrod rotation with the use of a roller tappet cam.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1

You are WRONG.

 

Well, I'm no LT1 techie, but I had the LT4 Hot Ca kit installed by a local mechanic, not just tha cam but the whole kit, and also had the computer reprogrammed. Started it up aftera few coughs, ran it hard right away, and have neve rhad an issue with it. The Cam install went in when the block had 95K miles and I'm now at 154K miles on it and it's still running fine. did you have the computer reprogrammed?

Chuck 95Z28 auto, LT4 Hot Cam Kit, CAI, Pacesetter headers, Borla exhaust wide open

 

haha, you sir, are a ****ing idiot.

 

wow you guys r dumb, any real mechanic will know the real procedure but i dont expect you kids to know yet. im a certified mechanic im sure your just young and dumb and im not wasteing my time anymore.

 

That's not a strong enough sentence to describe this kid.

Where do you work with your certifications? Let me know so I never go there.

 

yeah you got me i'm full of it, don't know what i'm takling about in the least, damn me and my fake engine building. foiled again

 

What year and for what motor was that GM manual published?

 

*COUGH*L98*COUGH*