I recently finished my supercharger install.
The first time I started it, it fired right up and I found a oil cooler line leaking at the bottom of the motor. I fixed the cooler line, started it back up and no more leak. Then I took off the balancer and supercharger pulley and checked it with a straightedge, i got it to sit flush. I ran it one more time to check the balancer and it did not want to start. After cranking for about 10 seconds it started up. The fans turned on right away and it reved at about 2000 rpms for about 30 seconds, and my check engine light came on. I pulled code 36 from the computer. Now my car won't start at all.
My delco opti, coil, and module are all less then 18 months old.
My car was running perfectly I got it smogged before I did the supercharger install. This was going to be the last time I ran the car before I towed it to the tuning shop and now it won't start. it ran with the supercharger at least 3 times for about 15 mins each time and the last time I started it I have problems. I didn't
Touch anything ignition related when I did the balancer, why would I have a problem randomly? My car has worked great for the last 1.5 years.
Any idea on what to start checking?
I had an appointment for a tune tomorrow and I really need to figure this out.

 

The opti or opti harness.

 

I checked the opti harness last night. With key on engine off I unplugged it by the valve cover and tested the 4 wires coming from the PCM.
I got 5 Volts on two wires, 12 volts positive and a ground.
So from the PCM to opti connector by valve cover it seems good.
Should I unplug harness from the opti itself and check to see if I get the same volts? it's kind of a pain to unplug it from the opti.

My real concern is this stuff is pretty new, I did not touch the opti or harness. why would it run all year and right when I'm about to take it to be tuned it stops working. Because it hates me? Because it knows I've tied up all my money getting this supercharger together and won't be able to finish for a while if I have to buy a opti? Needless to say I am pretty frustrated with it right now. There is no way that the opti should be bad. It's about a year old and a Delphi unit which cost me about $350. The harness was replaced with the opti.

 

36 isn't your problem. It won't kill the engine. Are you sure there are no other codes?

 

When the code popped up it didn't kill the motor. I turned it off and a few hours later I checked the codes and at that point it wouldn't start. Now I have no spark at the coil...

 

Have you scanned it again since you shut it off and it won't restart?

 

I have no spark coming out of the coil.
I checked the wiring of the optispark connector, coil, ignition module, and the 3 engine grounds that mount to the coil bracket with the key on engine off.
I compared the volt reading for each pin in each connector to my brothers 95 LT1 trans am and everything looked good and matched his readings. I also took the coil and module from his car and tried it on mine... no go. His car works fine so this leads me to believe I need a new optispark. Opinions?

 

Funny thing is I did. I wanted to clear the code before I tried starting the car again but when I checked codes the second time nothing came up. I didn't clear it the first time but the car hasn't started since before I checked the codes the first time. Somehow the code disappeared.
All I notice now is the MIL light is on when i crank it over but I think that is normal.

 

If the opti were the cause of your problems, you would have a code for it. The only one the opti would throw that kills the engine is a 16. Incidentally it does not set an SES.

You need to look at the signal from the PCM to the ICM to see if it has the correct AC voltage. Then proceed through the proper troubleshooting method.

 

The last time my opti went out the car was driving fine then one day it would not start. I had no codes come up, and my fuel injectors did not have a pulsing ground.
I was pretty sure it was the opti that time because I had a cheap ebay one and was always leery of it.
So I replaced the opti with a delco unit and it started right up.

As far as testing the ICM to see if it has the correct AC voltage, I'm not sure my troubleshooting guide says nothing about testing ac volts to ICM.
I tested the dc volts to the 4 prongs at the icm connector and they matched the volts on my brothers trans am, which works.
I know it is not the ICM or Coil because I tried swapping them with known working ones and it did nothing.
I will try pulling codes again and see if anything else pops up.

 

check your ignition control module, sounds like that might be the culprit

that or check the grounds around the area

 

See "sticky" at the top of this forum's topic listing page.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...d-opti-601565/

 

Thanks for the link I've seen that before but forgot about the Ac volts.
Retested and found:
ign module (harness removed, coil plugged in):
A: 12 volts
B: nothing (tested for Ac volts while cranking)
C: ground
D: 12 volts

harness removed from optispark
A:5 volts
B: 5 volts
C: 12 volts
D: ground

So since my opti wiring harness is working, it must be my PCM or optispark, correct? I have a extra PCM so I think I should get an opti and hope that it fires up.

 

You also have to check the two signal wires coming from the Optic for a 0-5V square wave (all harnesses connectted).

 

Since it's highly unlikely you have a device that is capable of viewing a square wave, or a wave of any kind. You could remove the plugs and rotate the engine by hand(KOEO) while using a DVM to monitor the low res signal. It should obviously, go from 0 to 5 volts and back again as Fred mentioned.

That is the critical item to test. I believe you have no or poor low res. signal. That incidentally shuts down the injectors. HOWEVER, if it does shut down the injectors, it will throw a DTC 16. So either your scanner is having a problem, you didn't see the code, you were mistaken about the injector pulses or your way off base with this.

BTW, it's very hard sometimes to get a good contact with a noid light. If you don't have good contact, you can easily mistake it for "no injector pulse". Also, if your injector fuses are blown, a noid light will not flash. Check your injector fuses.

You need to plug everything back in and measure the white IC wire on the ICM for AC voltage while someone cranks it over.

You also need to scan it with a good scanner. I believe yours either has a problem or you missed something.