LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 Upgrade

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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 08:50 PM
  #16  
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I would like to stay under 10k if possible, that's why i want to try to stay away from the ls7. there around 12k alone the yes you would need a new trans and a lot of other upgrades as well. The above sounds great.....what is FI and D1SC : /
lol
I like the "it'll drive like completely stock." part.
Old Mar 4, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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Ohhh....d1sc is a procharger. this sounds pretty good. I'm not against a supercharger, I was just questioning DD reliability. But if there reasonably reliable then this does sound like the best way to go.

Last edited by SpeedZ28; Mar 4, 2009 at 08:55 PM.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:07 PM
  #18  
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So maybe since my jasper crate engine only has less then 30k on it I should just use this engine with the d1sc. So should I maybe through some upgraded heads on it and some headers as well? An inter cooled d1sc says 50-85% hp gain so i guess if I just leave the engine alone and get a minimum of 50% gain 285hp stock + 50% 142.50 puts me at 427.50hp. So maybe just some headers added to enhance sound and flow?
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 12:16 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SpeedZ28
So maybe since my jasper crate engine only has less then 30k on it I should just use this engine with the d1sc. So should I maybe through some upgraded heads on it and some headers as well? An inter cooled d1sc says 50-85% hp gain so i guess if I just leave the engine alone and get a minimum of 50% gain 285hp stock + 50% 142.50 puts me at 427.50hp. So maybe just some headers added to enhance sound and flow?
you will at least want some forged pistons in that engine. You can pick up TRW/SpeedPro's for roughly 425 from summit. Is the engine a 4.000 bore or 4.030? I would also recommend getting at least new rod bolts installed in the rods. Otherthan that, the rods and stock crank can last 600RWHP in these lt1s.

Head on over to the forced induction section, you can learn a lot in a little time.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:38 PM
  #20  
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Definately put headers on. Best bang for the buck with the exception of nitrous. If you ran it at low boost, that motor should live for quite a while, tuned correctly for not detonation. Later you could always build an all forged shortblock and crank up the boost at that point and have a real killer setup.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by reamo04
you will at least want some forged pistons in that engine. You can pick up TRW/SpeedPro's for roughly 425 from summit. Is the engine a 4.000 bore or 4.030? I would also recommend getting at least new rod bolts installed in the rods. Otherthan that, the rods and stock crank can last 600RWHP in these lt1s.

Head on over to the forced induction section, you can learn a lot in a little time.
It's a jasper crate but it based on stock specs...i'm not sure of the bore but its based on stock specs...so i'm guess what ever stock is.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SpeedZ28
It's a jasper crate but it based on stock specs...i'm not sure of the bore but its based on stock specs...so i'm guess what ever stock is.
Stock bore is 4.00 stock stroke is 3.48, for future reference.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dr97z
Definately put headers on. Best bang for the buck with the exception of nitrous. If you ran it at low boost, that motor should live for quite a while, tuned correctly for not detonation. Later you could always build an all forged shortblock and crank up the boost at that point and have a real killer setup.
I alread have Nitrous on the car...Can I run low boost and nitrous?
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:38 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SpeedZ28
I alread have Nitrous on the car...Can I run low boost and nitrous?
low boost and nitrous might be pushin it. you could however sell the nitrous and use the $$ towards a supercharger.

Also, u could look at the STS rear mount turbo kit. I believe its around the same price as the d1sc procharger.

Either way, your going to get your 400hp mark.

heres some testimonial for the STS turbo
http://www.ststurbo.com/testimonials
heres a link to the kit
http://www.ststurbo.com/camaro_lt1

heres the data sheet for the STS turbo as well
http://oi.b5z.net/i/u/1473169/i/pdfs...1_02_Final.pdf

Last edited by reamo04; Mar 6, 2009 at 02:46 PM.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #25  
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The question is....which would be more reliable for a dd?
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 02:50 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SpeedZ28
The question is....which would be more reliable for a dd?
both will be fine as long as u do not turn the boost up and get a good tune. Talk to bryan herter at pcmforless and he can get u squared away with the tune.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 10:42 PM
  #27  
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I'm sure Bryan is great, but for something that needs to be precise a dynotune would be better, and if you chose to do a mail order through Bryan, I would be hooking up a Air Fuel ratio gauge to help him get spot on, before getting carried away.
Old Mar 6, 2009 | 11:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dr97z
I'm sure Bryan is great, but for something that needs to be precise a dynotune would be better, and if you chose to do a mail order through Bryan, I would be hooking up a Air Fuel ratio gauge to help him get spot on, before getting carried away.
i had a mail order from him, and then a dyno tune afterwards.
Old Mar 7, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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Thank you everyone for all the comments. I agree imo the best way to go is with the supercharger. I think since this engine only has 25-30k miles I will just run on it on this engine as is at low boost maybe 8-9lbs, with some headers and a good tune according to the quoted hp gains by procharger is that worst case scenario at low boost I'd be at 427hp. When the motor finally gets tired (or I need more hp which ever comes first), I'll rebuild it so I can run a a lot higher boost...then the sky's the limit....lol. Does anyone here happen to have a 3.42 on a 4l60 that can tell me what rpm do they run cruising at 90? I may consider upping to that gear.

Thanks for all the help.
Old Mar 7, 2009 | 10:48 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by SpeedZ28
Thank you everyone for all the comments. I agree imo the best way to go is with the supercharger. I think since this engine only has 25-30k miles I will just run on it on this engine as is at low boost maybe 8-9lbs, with some headers and a good tune according to the quoted hp gains by procharger is that worst case scenario at low boost I'd be at 427hp. When the motor finally gets tired (or I need more hp which ever comes first), I'll rebuild it so I can run a a lot higher boost...then the sky's the limit....lol. Does anyone here happen to have a 3.42 on a 4l60 that can tell me what rpm do they run cruising at 90? I may consider upping to that gear.

Thanks for all the help.
http://www.f-body.org/gears/

you can find it yourself there. plus play w/ a couple different variations
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