VladimirSteel

Like the title says. What could be the issue? The car runs good when its started, but once it gets up to temperature it starts running pig rich. o2 sensors have been replaced. The car isnt here, and I havent messed with it in a while, but I will be working on it this weekend and I wanted to try and research a little bit. It has some kind of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator on it that probably needs swapped out for a factory one. I have no idea what else has been done to the car. Is there a way to tell if the injectors are factory or not? Could it be the MAF? How can I check that? Im not sure if it starts right when it goes into closed loop mode or not. Ill have to figure that out this weekend.

Thanks

96m6lt1

Have you checked the coolant temperature switch? Located in the water pump....

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slick1hunting

First off getting a cable and data logging software would help immensely and without it most things are guesses. Second any exhaust leaks near or upstream from the o2 will do it. Misfires will also do it(look for arching in the dark and best to look from hood and under car paying very close attention at spark plug boot and any place plug wire is near header or exhaust manifold. Vacuum leaks or unmetered air can get you out of whack. The aftermarket regulator is highly suspicious too as many people report problems and I would at very least check fuel pressure and also moniter it some while driving(can get them on loaner programs from autozone and orieleys if you dont have one or want to buy one.) You can clean the maf with maf cleaner and a qtip being very careful and check the connections from it to the tb for any holes and splits.


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VladimirSteel

Turned out to be the MAF (im pretty sure). The plug was bad and was causing it to throw a code when it would wiggle around. Replaced that and it wouldnt throw a code, but it would run awful due to being rich. Unplug the MAF and it runs great.

It also has a couple other codes. Ill have to get the exact ones later, but it would throw crank sensor and throttle position sensor codes. I thought that the tps code could be related to the maf, so we will replace that first and see what changes.

It also has what I assume is a bad reverse lockout solenoid. The car was super hard to get over into reverse when the key was on, and easier when it was off. I unplugged it and its easy now.

The fuel pump also runs for a long time when you turn the key on, The pressure seems to come right up, and doesnt bleed down, so im not sure yet of the problem there. We also started getting an EVAP code. Once when we went and drove it hard and came back to the shop, you could hear gas percolating in the tank and there was a ton of pressure built up when you took the gas cap off. I assume this has something to do with the EVAP. Didnt have time to look at that though

VladimirSteel

so we got a MAF on it today, and it runs good. It caused some weird stuff though... I thought that this car had the skip shift eliminated. Turns out it didnt, because once we got the new MAF, the skip shift started working, along with the reverse lockout solenoid .

It still has the crank sensor code and the TPS code.