what is about the max hp and rpm range the LT1 rods and crank will take? i have heard anywhere from 6000-6500.

 

I know guys spraying to higher rpms than that, we are talking regularly shifting at 6800 on completely stock bottom ends, you head wrong. PCM is more of a limit with it's 7-7200rpm limit it can not control timing beyond that. There are guys with old cop cars shifting at 6500 every day of the week with over 100k mile bottom ends.

 

The stock rods would be your limitation. I think the stock crank is good for way more than any other part in the stock longblock. Depending on hp I wouldn't want to spin the rods much higher than 6600 on a regular basis. But you never know, some guys have good luck and can do a whole lot better than that.

 

OK if the rods are going to be called the weak point I think it necessary to point out I have seen GM list them as good to 500hp, weakest point maybe but FAR from weak.

 

the weak point are not the rods...its the ROD BOLTS

 

More than HP can ruin a rod. RPMs kill rods just as fast.

Yes the rod bolts are crap, just as with the LS1s. But I figure those are something you can change without taking the whole bottom end out of the car. Heck, I have seen them changed without even removing the engine.

 

thanks for all the replies. i knew the bolts were crap and planned on changing them as well as studding the block. i plan on building this motor and putting a littl turbo on it and was just wondering how much the rods and crank would handle. i dont plan on over about 10psi of boost but i may go with nitrous, not sure yet at this time. i know guys who are spraying the house down with a stock bottom end but that is still only in the 430-475hp range even on the bottle with a bolt on car. thanks for the info and anyone seen any group buys on good pistons cause the stockers are definitely gonna be gone.

 

There are b-body guys with heads and cam on stock bottoms putting over 450hp 600ft. lbs. to the wheels with nitrous, I watched one myself he also shifted over 6500 on the bottle. Another is over 400hp at the crank NA and runs a 2 stage system good for 280 hp car has been seeing 200hp shots for literally years, again shifting over 6K. Maybe such extreme usage should not be recommended but it does speak volumes about how stout the stock motor is.

 

There is more to changing rod bolts than beating them in with a hammer.
Old bolts should be pressed out and new ones pressed in.Then torque the cap on and go have the crank bore resized. You are looking for serious bearing trouble if you don't.

 

The Powdered Metal Rods are actually stronger than the old "Pink" GM rods too, so if you have a new small block they are a nice setup. Then again a Scat I is better still and cheap.

Bret