I'm lookin for a lt1 rebuild kit.. just not sure where to purchase from or what i should do... i would like to keep cost down of course but that usually never happens. Anyway i would like 435-450 to the wheels... do i need to go 383 or can i achieve this with a 355?

its a 94 corvette the motor is comin from and going into. 160k miles, oils leaking and the intake/valve cover gasket replacement didnt cure it. going to pull the motor and thought why not rebuild and do what ive always wanted. 435-450 hp is kinda a lot N/A for a lt1? or not?

i dont even know what heads to go with, can i achieve my goal with LE lt1 heads? or should i step up with something else? and what cam? would like to keep it pretty respectable on the street so even if 450 is gettin up there 415-425 hp wont bother me too much i guess haha. thanks

 

the first thing people are going to ask is how much are you willing to spend to get to your goal. 450rwhp isn't by any means cheap. by knowing your budget amount you will get a better answer.

 

450 na rwhp = $$$.

 

Cast cranks can typically hold up to 500 flywheel HP. Depending on your configuration with trans and differential combo will affect your RWHP.

You can get to those numbers with an LT1 as many others are doing it. A 383 will get there easier than a 355 depending on how you want your set up. Do you want it to lope? Do you want a smooth idle?

If you go with a 383, Lloyd Elliot has a good head & cam package at http://www.eportworks.com. Advanced Induction can also do a great job with their head & cam package at http://www.advancedinduction.com.

 

so going all N/A will be more expensive than buying a charger? I do love the whine, and my budget is so so at the moment just lookin to see exactly how much i need.. was lookin mainly for the shortblock at the moment.. around 2500 i imagine? and then was going to start saving for heads/cam..

 

Superchargers can run $3500 to $5500 with intercoolers and internal supercharger upgrades. N/A can cost around $1900 for head and cam work. Rotating assemblies can be around $2000 for the bottom end. Then add gaskets and parts. Machining is always good to do on a high mileage engine and you can bore over 030 to get a clean cylinder without taper... add $650 which includes cleaning and zero decking.

You should decide early to go blower or not... the exhaust ports on the head should be increased significantly if you are going blown or turbo. Whether going blown or N/A you'll benefit from better flowing heads.

Get a forged bottom end if going blown. You can get away with Hypereutechtic pistons and cast crank N/A if under 500 HP... but forged is good insurance.

 

...and harder to do than most want to admit.