well I am going start pricing some items. I am worried that if I go the route of the cam and heads, and hit my 400, it won't be long I will probably want to go bigger.
I am going to talk to the builders next week. See what kinda of ideas they have. Run some numbers and see what price range I am going to be looking at. I am thinking if it will only be the matter of a different crank, and rods, guessing another $1000, I may as well go with the 383.
It will depend on cost I guess, and see if I can justify it.

Thanks,

 

Go forged for sure man. Reliability is the main thing. You can build one good motor for less than the price of two bad ones.

 

If you think you may want to go big on the heads and cam, then yes a forged 383 will be your best bet. Don't let your builder talk you into a $250 cast crank; they like to fall apart, my builder tried to talk me into a cast crank when I looked around his shop and noticed two motors with broken aftermarket cast cranks I decided to keep my stock crank. Go with something like this
Crank - Scat 4340 3.75" 1pc rms
Rods - Scat 4340 6" Procomp I beams
Pistons - Mahle coated forged with rings and wristpins
Bearings - Clevite coated H series rod and main bearings

 

I am about to start a rebuild of my own and I have been thinking about the same choices. So is the LT1 bottom end special or will any SBC rotating assembly work? Also, has anyone used the splayed 4 bold mains? Is it worth the price and machining?

 

The stock bottom end is typical SBC with a one-piece RMS.

The stock 2-bolt mains are very strong and can support some big HP.

 

Also the stock crank can handle some major abuse as well. Don't buy an after market cast crank, the stock crank is suitable for a 500 fwhp motor but if you have the extra coin then 600-700 is minor for the insurance a 4340 crank will bring.

 

Don't mean to change the subject but can you get a motor balanced after its installed in car?

 

No. Balancing requires the crank to be in a jig, spun with weights attached to the rod journals.....