First off this is a first time for me to rebuild an engine. I am trying to do as much as possible by myself.
I took the intake and heads off, and I noticed two of the pistons had oil setting on them. The one had about a 1/3 of the cylinder full, the other was about half of that. I am assuming that is from the piston rings failing. Can anyone confirm that? Is there something else I should be looking at?(pistons, connecting rods) I will still be stripping the engine all the way down. Replacing all bearings, and seals. I will then take it to get machined. I am still debating on boring or not undecided. I am already planning on upgrading the top half.

Some quick insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,

Next question would be, anyone know a good reputable company near northwest ohio

 

You better bore it and install new pistons; I would go with 4.030 bore. If you are not building a track car I would reuse the crank and rods; do not buy a new cast crank they are crap. I went with probe 12334 4.030" bore pistons they are forged. If you are looking for heads and cam here is a couple of the best http://elliottsportworks.com/ http://advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiL...ccCompHead.php.

 

Definitely going to be a street car. I am leaning towards boring anyways, not sure if I would be happy otherwise. I will be disappointed if I don't at least achieve near 400 rwhp.
Lloyd Elliot was the route I was planning on going.

Also kind of new to this stuff obviously what would boring it 4.030 make the block

Did a little googleing. I found this
383 is 4.030 bore and 3.75" stroke
385 is 4.040 bore and 3.75" stroke
396 is 4.030 bore and 3.875 stroke
397 is 4.040 bore and 3.875 stroke
Never mind stock stroke is 3.48

 

It would be a 355 with a 4.030 bore.stock stroke is 3.48. I had a 355 built for street strip. Its quickly turning into a strip only car lol.

 

4.030 with the stock crank/rod is a 355. With the right heads and cam 400rwhp is possible, you also need other supporting mods; headers, exhaust cold air intake, throttle body, roller rockers injectors and I if you have the cash have lloyd port the intake to match the heads and cam. If you are used to driving around a nearly stock car you are going to be shocked if you build it to 400rwhp; it will definatly put a smile on your face when it is done and tuned. I would run a Victor Reinz 5898 head gasket; you want to keep the compression around 12.1 for a n/a street build.

 

If u want maximum performance go with advanced inductions. Lloyd is good but your guaranteed identical results as everyone else gets with c.n.c porting through a.I. all heads are created equal by the almighty 5 axis. Not in any way knocking Lloyd 's work because it is proven. The fastest guys run advanced inductions trickflows or afr's

 

12to1? Not trying too argue here at all but from my own personal experience my car runs mediocre at best on 93 and takes 9 dollar a gallon 104 too really run the way it should plus I guess the 104 is extra insurance when I run my car on hippie crack lol

 

Well a little more background would probably help. I used to have a 94 z28, then went to the 2000 SS, had LT's, Ls6 intake, Pcmforless tune. I since sold those, now project is to put a LT1 into a 85 TA. Like stated before the plan is 400 Rwhp. I was planning on going with Lloyd elliot. Unless something else comes thru. What is ballpark price to get a block bored? I appreciate all the responses. Obviously I am still in planning, and gathering parts stage. I have the engine, trans comes tomorrow, I have a wire harness. Just chipping away at it.
Any other suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated. I'm only a broke federal worker, have to do this small steps at a time, and plan it out the best I can.

 

On a performance build I would consider boring the block a NECESSARY expense. Concentricity of the bores is incredibly important.

Keep in mind that .030" is just a popular number. You may only need to go .020" or even .010". Truthfully though only your machinist can determine whether or not the cylinders need to be opened up.

My short block machine work and assembly (minus parts and associated labor) was right around $1300.

Don't let the compression scare you. Anyone can run higher compression as long as you have an adequate cooling system and the tune is spot-on. My motor is in excess of 12.5:1 and runs beautifully with no fancy high-dollar parts.

 

Make sure too take into account your dynamic compression ratio as well.

 

That much oil had to leak in there during disassembly. If not it would have hydro locked and broke a rod.

 

Yeah I think everything is ok. I dropped the block off at the builder today. I will be finding out for sure in a few days.
Thanks,
Next question is spend a little more and jump up to a 383 or not.
Just throwing that out there.
Not sure where I want to go now.

 

Depends on what you want? More cubes will always make more power and torque. If your not gonna be happy with 400rwhp then by all means build a 383. My.02 cents if your anything like me then build it big and right the first time or you wont be happy.1st I was gonna do a stock rebuild with a cam. Then changed my mind and went with a 355 with a big hydraulic roller, every bolting. Imaginable. Then it wasn't good enough and bought nitrous. Now I still want more but because of my rather stockish rebuild im afraid too go too big as I don't wanna melt down or blow apart my speed pro hyper's

 

I could've saved 4-5 k building it right the first time.

 

You dont need a 383 for a 400rwhp build; just spent the extra cash on the heads and cam. If you go 383 then you will need a forged crank $500+ new rods and pistons; I would not go with the cast non oem cranks, it is just not worth it if you are looking to build a street 400rwhp car. I would just buy new 4.030" pistons, have arp rod bolts installed or buy new rods, reuse the old crank and have everything balanced; with good heads/cam and supporting mods you can make over 400rwhp.