LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 rebuild ques

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Old May 10, 2008 | 12:26 AM
  #1  
SuperSport87's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6
From: Palm Harbor, FL
LT1 rebuild ques

so im lookin around for a rebuild kit for my iron headed LT1. ive seen em on summit and jegs, but i figured id find out if theres other places better on the dollar. i picked up this motor with 2 spun rod bearings. just recently i purchased a stock crank and carb manifold. now ive decided to keep the EFI and boost the motor with a .57 trim turbo to 6lbs of boost. id like to use a domed forged piston to lower my comp and add some strength as ive heard hypertec is crap? i dont kno. how much power can the stock crank and rods hold? will i be ok with just 6lbs on it? its basically a weekend warrior with ocasional daily and im doing a T56 swap into my monte as soon as i can find a decent one close to me and priced well. i need cam kit, rockers, timing set, and pistons. kinda lookin for a kit like that.
Old May 10, 2008 | 11:53 AM
  #2  
YodiBrodi's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Dallas
hyperutetic is fine in a naturally aspirated engine that doesn't spin very high. with forced induction i would be going forged all the way to the crank. stock powdered rods are good to approx. 500hp but from what i've been told from several sources is just buy aftermarket forged rods. once you spend all the money to have your stock rods refinished you're in about as deep as you would have been with new rods. you also do not need domed pistons for 2 reasons: domed raises compression, you want forced induction so need to lower yours.
2. LT1's have small combustion chambers and flat tops achieve 10.5:1 in a stock LT1. most guys who rebuild go with thinner head gaskets that bump it up more, plus, most rebuilt heads are milled slightly which bumps it up more again. look for dished pistons. mahle sells forged and coated pistons for a reasonable price. buy 6" rods vs stock 5.7" rods, better geometry (rod ratio). also with 6" rods your piston will be shorter, means less weight, less friction. stock crank might be ok, there's a guy running around this board making 500rwhp with a NA 355 still using the stock crank and spinning to 8k rpm. i would still choose forged. i'm sure caprice will jump in and might have something to add or even alter.
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