Lt1 operating temperature
ummm... that's a little open....
- outside temperture when it's off
- about 5 to 10 degrees above thermostat temp when highway cruising (stock will be ~190*F)
- about 5 to 10 degrees above max fan temp when in stop and go (stock was ~215*F I think... do a search on that one).
Are those the 3 answers you got?
- outside temperture when it's off

- about 5 to 10 degrees above thermostat temp when highway cruising (stock will be ~190*F)
- about 5 to 10 degrees above max fan temp when in stop and go (stock was ~215*F I think... do a search on that one).
Are those the 3 answers you got?
It should reach thermostat (~185*F) in 10 minutes or so.... and stay near that at highway cruising. Pull over and park it to watch temps climb.
If it passes 230*F shut it down and check the radiator is hot (just feel the cap... DON'T OPEN IT)... just to make sure the water is flowing.
The temp gauge in the car is fed directly from the cylinder head water jacket.
The PCM temp is in the water pump itself.
There really isn't a gauge inside the radiator to see the temp of water in there... that's why you need to check the cap.
I saw a rad cap at the local autoparts store that has a built-in temp gauge... it's pretty trick, but I couldn't find one in 18psi. :-/ (only 16psi and 20psi).
If it passes 230*F shut it down and check the radiator is hot (just feel the cap... DON'T OPEN IT)... just to make sure the water is flowing.
The temp gauge in the car is fed directly from the cylinder head water jacket.
The PCM temp is in the water pump itself.
There really isn't a gauge inside the radiator to see the temp of water in there... that's why you need to check the cap.
I saw a rad cap at the local autoparts store that has a built-in temp gauge... it's pretty trick, but I couldn't find one in 18psi. :-/ (only 16psi and 20psi).
Yeah me too, like I said, it depends on the programming and thermostat setting... but if "it goes PAST 230*F" be worried.
Of course my fans settings are low, 160*F stat, 2" rad, and CSR e-pump with fan-override switch activation. High compression 396's don't dig stupid-high temps.
Of course my fans settings are low, 160*F stat, 2" rad, and CSR e-pump with fan-override switch activation. High compression 396's don't dig stupid-high temps.
ok I have a new waterpump and the reverse cooling lines are hooked up and she still is getting hot.It is fine when idle going from 170-190 at idle, but when I accelerate the temperature goes up 210-230+. the coolant in the coolant tank holds up ok, never gets too low, never get to high
Perhaps your radiator isn't radiating heat out of the system. Without load it may be fine, but under load perhaps it can't work efficiently enough to remove the heat.
Have you tried a Flush? Did you bleed out the bubbles from the bleeder screws?
If it was an LT1 into your '86, perhaps that radiator is too small (or as above... needs a good cleaning).
Have you tried a Flush? Did you bleed out the bubbles from the bleeder screws?
If it was an LT1 into your '86, perhaps that radiator is too small (or as above... needs a good cleaning).
ok I have a new waterpump and the reverse cooling lines are hooked up and she still is getting hot.It is fine when idle going from 170-190 at idle, but when I accelerate the temperature goes up 210-230+. the coolant in the coolant tank holds up ok, never gets too low, never get to high
I am going to try the bleeder screws this morning, the radiator is from the lt1 so it should be fine, already flushed. I do not have the air dam on but will try that also. I dont have the filter yet , just the extensions crome piece that goes to throttle body


