No bumping gums there, old man. I just asked some questions in which you've refused to answer other than the long winded list of something that has absolutely nothing to do with what I asked. I don't play the, "I say this and I claim that, now prove me wrong.." lefty liberal type shenanigans.
Ain't no big deal. You feel you're right then it won't hurt my feelings at all.

 

You have already been proven wrong.

YOU prove ME wrong. Ya cant so you resort to personal attacks. That's all right it has happened by better people than you.

 

no rod knock at idle? here is my car with a little rod knock- all over the rpm range: http://videos.camaroz28.com/video/a4...3701338a9d.htm

 

Like I said earlier, That one is fixing to window the block. If you had done what I had suggested earlier ya would have caught it before it was so bad.


Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) Feathering the gas pedal may result in a distinctive back rattle between 2500 and 3500 RPMs.
Bad rod knocks may double knock if enough rod bearing material has been worn away allowing the piston to whack the cylinder head in addition to the big end of the connecting rod banging on the crankshaft rod journal. It will sound like a hard metallic knock (rod) with an alternating and somewhat muffled aluminum (piston) klock sound.
Wrist pin knock in modern engines is very rare today but is a favorite for the misdiagnosticians.

 

Er... okay... perhaps in your mind? I don't see anything that has proven anyone wrong. Looks like a bunch of drivel on cause and solution and does not cover my original question.
Your blanket statement about how a knock is only heard just before it windows the block can pretty much be plugged in for any component of your liking.