LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

lt1 keyed crank hub

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #1  
ayers1967's Avatar
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lt1 keyed crank hub

http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...ories&pcid=239

Anyone else make or sale this? It's been 8 weeks know and I still don't have mine . They just keep telling me it will ship next week .
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:22 AM
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I can key your hub for $40.....
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Get this one, as it's what I went with and very very good quality. Plus no waiting:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51609/10002/-1

Choose the right one for your year (see both links above).

It is keyed and the only mod you need to do is pull the locator/dowl pin out to get your stock balancer/pulley to bolt right up.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:48 AM
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ayers1967's Avatar
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
Get this one, as it's what I went with and very very good quality. Plus no waiting:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51609/10002/-1

Choose the right one for your year (see both links above).

It is keyed and the only mod you need to do is pull the locator/dowl pin out to get your stock balancer/pulley to bolt right up.


That will work . Thanks!
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 02:53 PM
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Do you have to have a key slot machined to use one of those?
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 96SSIndeed
Do you have to have a key slot machined to use one of those?
No - the LT1 crank already has a keyway, it's just not used from the factory as the stock crank hub is a press fit as is this one. You don't have to use the keyway to install this hub as it fits just as tight as the original.

Of course if you want to key it you can and all you gotta do is get some various size keys from your local AP and see which one fits.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE00
No - the LT1 crank already has a keyway, it's just not used from the factory as the stock crank hub is a press fit as is this one. You don't have to use the keyway to install this hub as it fits just as tight as the original.

Of course if you want to key it you can and all you gotta do is get some various size keys from your local AP and see which one fits.

Actually, all you have to do is take the stock one to the auto parts store and buy one without the weird cutout.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bw_hunter
Actually, all you have to do is take the stock one to the auto parts store and buy one without the weird cutout.
Probably won't find a crank hub at your local AP store and if you do it's probably just as much as the billett piece from JEGS I posted earlier. Ran into this myself a while back as I bent the crank hub removing it and had to get a new one that was keyed already as we keyed the Eagle crank when we did the 383 many years ago.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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I believe he was speaking of the woodruff key itself.
Old Mar 15, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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oh cool thanks
Old Oct 12, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Dang it! I'm in the same boat. Both Jegs and Thunderracing are out of the part. They keep saying it will ship in a couple weeks.

Well, time to find a machine shop here in Raleigh with an EDM machine. Anyone know what depth I should tell them to cut?
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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I run this one:

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...114&CtgID=9919

No pic but is black with a red ring on the front and timing marks. SFI too.
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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He wants a keyed hub..... not a new damper.
Old Oct 13, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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I don't see why this is a big issue, any decent engine shop should have the bushing and broach to put the slot in your stock damper for < $50 like Daryl mentioned earlier. This is common tooling that is used to setup dual keyways on blower motors.
Old Oct 15, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Are there any differences in performance/longevity if you opt to slot your OE hub VS. opting to buy a slotted aftermarket hub? Balancing...anything like that? Im trying to get some insight on this issue. My project is will be back on the road pretty soon



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