LT1 intake leak
#1
LT1 intake leak
I read something on another post about an "infamous intake leak" on the LT1's. I'm fairly new to my 95 Z.....was a third gen bird owner before....and haven't gotten as hardcore into this one yet.
My question is exactly what leaks on the intake? is it oil and antifreeze like a typical intake leak is thought of. Or a vacume leak?
Reason I ask is my car has always had this LOUD his ever since i bought it. No check engine light....and whenever I try and pinpoint a vacume leak it seams to be coming from the CAI. So far I've chalked it up to a loud CAI....I've got the K&N. I've skimmed over the engine with the carb cleaner trick and got nothing. Car runs pretty well, and have never had a check engine light. Hell.....never had a problem with the car in the year I've had it.
Any input is appreciated.....
Ryan
My question is exactly what leaks on the intake? is it oil and antifreeze like a typical intake leak is thought of. Or a vacume leak?
Reason I ask is my car has always had this LOUD his ever since i bought it. No check engine light....and whenever I try and pinpoint a vacume leak it seams to be coming from the CAI. So far I've chalked it up to a loud CAI....I've got the K&N. I've skimmed over the engine with the carb cleaner trick and got nothing. Car runs pretty well, and have never had a check engine light. Hell.....never had a problem with the car in the year I've had it.
Any input is appreciated.....
Ryan
#3
Re: LT1 intake leak
Not even the EGR valve leaks as much as the back of the actual manifold does, the LT1's intake manifolds do NOT have front and rear premolded rubber seals(gaskets) like the older small blocks did. These simply use a hefty line of high temp RTV sealent which is very common to rot away or get blown out of a high milage motor, or a 'poor fix it' job. I had a friend who had this leak in his 95 TA, we fixed it within a day, pulling the intake is tedious and time consuming, but not that complicated at all, simply buy an intake gasket kit from Summit and it will include the following:
2 intake manifold gaskets
1 throttle body gasket
8 fuel injector o-rings (you wont need them if you leave them in the manifold when you pull it)
1 tube of RTV sealent
carefully remove your intake manifold, clean off your surfaces very carefully and neatly, use the plastic tabs on your new intake manifold gaskets to hold them in place, RTV a nice constant stream on the rear and front of your engine block (make sure to let a little of it run onto the corners of your intake gaskets), then gently sit your intake manifold as straight down as you can (2 people really helps) onto your engine block, and then fingure THREAD your 2 rear and 2 front intake bolts, run the threads down to a safe hold (about 1/4 - 1/2 of an inch from pulling your manifold flush) to keep your intake manifold gaskets in place and neatly form the RTV sealent, do NOT tighten these bolts down all the way or your will squeeze your RTV out before it is cured and it will not get the seal you desired, wait a good 16 - 24 hours, put in and tighten the rest of your bolts down, replug all the conector and fuel lines, and let her rip
again i know it sounds like alooooooot of work, but its really not alot to it except patiece
2 intake manifold gaskets
1 throttle body gasket
8 fuel injector o-rings (you wont need them if you leave them in the manifold when you pull it)
1 tube of RTV sealent
carefully remove your intake manifold, clean off your surfaces very carefully and neatly, use the plastic tabs on your new intake manifold gaskets to hold them in place, RTV a nice constant stream on the rear and front of your engine block (make sure to let a little of it run onto the corners of your intake gaskets), then gently sit your intake manifold as straight down as you can (2 people really helps) onto your engine block, and then fingure THREAD your 2 rear and 2 front intake bolts, run the threads down to a safe hold (about 1/4 - 1/2 of an inch from pulling your manifold flush) to keep your intake manifold gaskets in place and neatly form the RTV sealent, do NOT tighten these bolts down all the way or your will squeeze your RTV out before it is cured and it will not get the seal you desired, wait a good 16 - 24 hours, put in and tighten the rest of your bolts down, replug all the conector and fuel lines, and let her rip
again i know it sounds like alooooooot of work, but its really not alot to it except patiece
#4
Re: LT1 intake leak
Originally Posted by six spd97
the leak is oil from the back of the intake. runs down the back of the motor (killed my clutch ). usually caused by the egr valve.
the leak is from a lack of sealant gm applied when assembling the engine and/or the intake bolts backing off due to heat cycling of the intake.
after bolting the intake on, run the car for a week and then retorque the intake bolts. that's the best preventative maintenance you can do to avoid the intake leaking again.
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