Quick update... I found the mystery connection, it was the AIR pump. Also, I found the #3 plug wire was not snapped on all the way to the opti. The caps on the AIR tubes for the headers were loose too. I'll give it another shot tommorrow. I still need to trace down the pass side plug wires... what a b@#$& those are!

 

Are those Pacesetters? I can't quite read the plate. Either way, are they stepped there at the flange? Like 1 5/8 stepped to 1 3/4? I've never noticed them being that way before.

 

Yeah, they are Pacesetters.

 

Dang! No dice! Car is still popping.

 

Did you reset the PCM to clear the long term fuel corrections? If not, it may take a while for the effects of the leaking AIR connections to disappear from the BLM's.

 

Take it to a shop for a diagnostic check on the scope. I had the same symptoms as you last summer after a big project, and it ended up being 2 plug wires being crossed. I swore for days that the wires were correct before I broke down and took it in. I was tired and frustrated and just couldn't see it. Taking it to the shop was the best $45 I ever spent. My troubles were gone in a matter of minutes.

 

Injuneer, I plugged the PCM in after having it reprogrammed. How, do I reset the sucker? Jason, yeah I need to check the pass-side wires better. I'm just frustrated with this situation. I paid a boatload of money for a car that runs like crap. If after I check the wires and reset the PCM I still have a problem the car is going back to the shop that "fixed" it.

 

Perhaps you shouldn't have "skimped" on the opti. Probably not your problem here, but one never knows about used parts, esp. since there is usually no guarantee to fall back on. JMHO

 

Oh, I agree with you 100% there! You know, that was the only thing I really took a chance on. I had purchase some other used components but decided to buy all new before the rebuid. I'm glad I did but wish I would have put down the extra coin for a new opti. I just put a new MAF on today and the car is still doing the same thing.

 

I am with the rest of them that said, 2 swapped wires. I did the same thing myself, and you are describing the same scenario/popping.

 

Just disconnect the battery for about a minute.

 

Thanks guys, I've verified the wires and the injectors. I did some datalogging and was getting a DTC code 48 (MAF). So I replaced the MAF, the car seems to run a little smother but still has that popping. I think I need to find someone who can look at my Datamaster log and see if there is anything obvious. I still have this fear it is the opti.

 

There is no price for piece of mind. One of my plug wires was loose at the opti. Have you checked them also?

 

I would do the following:
-Delete the rest of the air carp
-Make sure the hole from the intake to the airpump is plugged up properly.
-Check all plug wires - both sides, trace them to make sure theyre not swapped.
-Check for burned wires.
-Check for burned wires again.
-Check your Coolant temp sensor carefully (on the side of the block). This is what the engine uses and its very easy to damage it or the connector when installing headers.
-Replace your opti

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the wires are correct and seated correctly. I did find one wire a bit loose on the opti but fixed it. I do have to correct one thing, I did notice the car does seem to pop even when not under load. It just doesnt happen as frequently as when I put it in gear and move it forward or backward.

Toby360, I'll check those wires again and the coolant temp sensor... please don't say the o-word! It may come to that but I would like to exhaust all other possibilities first.

One more thing - How can I tell if my O2s are working properly? Looking over the Datamaster log, it seems one stays around 500 the other around 800 in open loop. When the car goes into closed loop then one that was 500 seems to jump around a bit but nothing like the 800 one.