LT1 enhancements
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7
LT1 enhancements
hye fellas.. im new to this site and need some help since i am new to my camaro as well. i have a 1995 Z-28. everything is stock i have a few problems with it but overall i love it.. i need something to stop my t-tops from leaking. new windshield or the stripping for it, windshield wipers, paint, and possibly a new head gasket (it leaks oil). i was wondering if anyone knew a place to get all of this? or a web site that's good? that's the small stuff.. now i want the big ****. headers, rockers, torque converter, exhaust, twin or single turbo, supercharger, 5 or 6 speed manual trans... in all i am wanting around 400-500 hp. i wanted some ideas and prices. what setups work best and where to purchase.. i am in KY
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 922
Re: LT1 enhancements
Woah there... first of all welcome to the forums
Next you need to establish a heading with your project before listing everything at once. Are you going with a boosted motor for sure? Im assuming you have an automatic right now so either get a torque converter or convert to a manual but be warned its pretty involved.
The search function is a powerful tool. Most questions can be answered.
Next you need to establish a heading with your project before listing everything at once. Are you going with a boosted motor for sure? Im assuming you have an automatic right now so either get a torque converter or convert to a manual but be warned its pretty involved.
The search function is a powerful tool. Most questions can be answered.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,628
From: Pgh, PA
Re: LT1 enhancements
To build a Turbo or Supercharged LT1, that will last, is not cheap. The stock bottom end will not take boost, for long. Its a hit and miss kind of thing. Some guys go 20-40K on them before they let loose, others last 20-40 minutes.
The compression on a LT1 F-Body is 10.4 to one. An LT1, uses hyperueretic (Spelling) ****ty stock pistons. Their prone to having the ring lands let loose on a forced induction set up. Intercooled or not.
On the flip side of things, a correct N20 set up, seems to be the easiet most reliable power for these cars. As long as you replace the fuel pump, run good injectors, and have the timing adjusted for it, MANY cars have been run for years on a 100-150 shot. Several on a 200 shot, but thats just asking for trouble. I personally wouldnt spray more than 100-125 on a stock bottom.
And then you can be a man, and build it all motor, heads and cam. Some of the heads and cam packages really kick ***. You can make well over 400 horsepower and be streetable. Actually some of the LE packages are making close to and over that, at the rear wheels, on a 6 speed car, which translates into over 450 horsepower. The downside is that you have to wind it out pretty high. Many guys have spun rod bearings spinning their motors. It seems like the guys with the problems are the ones turning at/past 6500ish. But even with a LE1 heads and cam kit, you can expect over 400 easy horsepower, some guys made 380 at the wheels with it. Which is like roughly 425HP? They are about the best way to go if you want to go all motor, and do it at a nice price ...
And DO NOT buy the LT1-LT4 conversion. Its like 2500, and you get heads that barely flor better than stock. LE ports stock castings and they would totally crush what you would get in a LT4 conversion.
Also some good budget minded set ups are :
Lingenfelter CAI
PaceSetter LT Headers and ORY
Hooker Catback
HotCam kit ( But you can make much more power with other cams, this happens to be cheap and will make some nice gains, plus comes with springs ( That are ****ty) and 1.6 RR's.)
Stock rockers are 1.5's and you dont really want to go past a 1.6 rocker. After that you start running into valvetrain geometry problems. It can be done 1.7, but it can be a real hassle.
Also, be fore you start modding, I strongly suggest flushing the radiator, changing the tranny fluid, oil, plugs, and wires. Actually, do the plugs and wires when you do headers.
And if you get coated headers, be prepared to have to replace the oxygen sensors. As the coating burns off at first, it clogs the louvers of the O2 sensors.
Stay on this site, and the guys will keep you in line.
Hope some of this helped.
The compression on a LT1 F-Body is 10.4 to one. An LT1, uses hyperueretic (Spelling) ****ty stock pistons. Their prone to having the ring lands let loose on a forced induction set up. Intercooled or not.
On the flip side of things, a correct N20 set up, seems to be the easiet most reliable power for these cars. As long as you replace the fuel pump, run good injectors, and have the timing adjusted for it, MANY cars have been run for years on a 100-150 shot. Several on a 200 shot, but thats just asking for trouble. I personally wouldnt spray more than 100-125 on a stock bottom.
And then you can be a man, and build it all motor, heads and cam. Some of the heads and cam packages really kick ***. You can make well over 400 horsepower and be streetable. Actually some of the LE packages are making close to and over that, at the rear wheels, on a 6 speed car, which translates into over 450 horsepower. The downside is that you have to wind it out pretty high. Many guys have spun rod bearings spinning their motors. It seems like the guys with the problems are the ones turning at/past 6500ish. But even with a LE1 heads and cam kit, you can expect over 400 easy horsepower, some guys made 380 at the wheels with it. Which is like roughly 425HP? They are about the best way to go if you want to go all motor, and do it at a nice price ...
And DO NOT buy the LT1-LT4 conversion. Its like 2500, and you get heads that barely flor better than stock. LE ports stock castings and they would totally crush what you would get in a LT4 conversion.
Also some good budget minded set ups are :
Lingenfelter CAI
PaceSetter LT Headers and ORY
Hooker Catback
HotCam kit ( But you can make much more power with other cams, this happens to be cheap and will make some nice gains, plus comes with springs ( That are ****ty) and 1.6 RR's.)
Stock rockers are 1.5's and you dont really want to go past a 1.6 rocker. After that you start running into valvetrain geometry problems. It can be done 1.7, but it can be a real hassle.
Also, be fore you start modding, I strongly suggest flushing the radiator, changing the tranny fluid, oil, plugs, and wires. Actually, do the plugs and wires when you do headers.
And if you get coated headers, be prepared to have to replace the oxygen sensors. As the coating burns off at first, it clogs the louvers of the O2 sensors.
Stay on this site, and the guys will keep you in line.
Hope some of this helped.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Re: LT1 enhancements
I'd suggest looking around the site and posting specific single or a couple of related questions in the appropriate forum as they come up. For instance, this thread is in LT1/LT4 Engine Tech, there is also a Drivetrain forum, a forum for tuning issues, general tech (like body stuff) and so on. Look around and see what I mean.
One of my pet peeves wrt questions is failing to include something about budget. For example, the question "what is the best piston for my LT1?" has a different answer if there is no upper limit in price or if the guy is looking for a budget set. Also, lack of specificity. A blower and an NA car need different pistons, and so on.
Rich
One of my pet peeves wrt questions is failing to include something about budget. For example, the question "what is the best piston for my LT1?" has a different answer if there is no upper limit in price or if the guy is looking for a budget set. Also, lack of specificity. A blower and an NA car need different pistons, and so on.
Rich
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
F'n1996Z28SS
Cars For Sale
8
Aug 23, 2023 11:19 PM
CARiD
Supporting Vendor Group Purchases and Sales
0
Jan 14, 2015 04:00 AM