LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Lt1 Engine Overheating

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Old Jun 26, 2003 | 09:38 PM
  #1  
matt94's Avatar
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Unhappy Lt1 Engine Overheating

My engine is overheating, running close to orange marker, need help. Both Fans are running, thermo in good shape. Hottness is burning rear seal, oil, trans fluid and lubrication close to tranny. Need help, any suggestion or anyone that use to have similar problem? Would appreciate any help out there, thanks!
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 01:01 AM
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when you uncap the radiator and let it get up to normal op temperature do you see the fluid swishing around a lot? You could have a clogged radiator. I'd try a full flush and make sure that you mix it 50/50 with coolant. Good Luck.
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 01:17 AM
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full flush, bleed the system, make sure your air dam is still intact under the car (will overheat without it) and see if you have any trash that has been sucked up under there that is blocking the radiator. These things are bottom feeders.
Good luck.
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 07:29 AM
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Originally posted by scoobysnax83
when you uncap the radiator and let it get up to normal op temperature do you see the fluid swishing around a lot? You could have a clogged radiator. I'd try a full flush and make sure that you mix it 50/50 with coolant. Good Luck.
I have just bought a new radiator, might it be one of the holes be blistering?
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 07:30 AM
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Originally posted by Teek
full flush, bleed the system, make sure your air dam is still intact under the car (will overheat without it) and see if you have any trash that has been sucked up under there that is blocking the radiator. These things are bottom feeders.
Good luck.
I'll check on this and then get back to you, thanks!
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 12:02 PM
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I had the same problem when I replaced my radiator. All I did was just fill up the radiator and thought it would just suck the water in, because that's what I've done on my previous car. Like they said there is a bleed screw where the upper hose connects to the engine. You have to open until water comes out and then you close it. (with engine running of course)
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 01:26 PM
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
I had the same problem when I replaced my radiator. All I did was just fill up the radiator and thought it would just suck the water in, because that's what I've done on my previous car. Like they said there is a bleed screw where the upper hose connects to the engine. You have to open until water comes out and then you close it. (with engine running of course)
Was your car overheating, and burning almost all liquids (oil, trans fluid and of course radi. liquid, thanks?
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 01:41 PM
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I replaced the radiator because it started leaking where the plastic tanks on the side attatch to the actual radiator. It sarted overheating because I didn't go through the correct coolant fill procedure.
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 02:17 PM
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
I replaced the radiator because it started leaking where the plastic tanks on the side attatch to the actual radiator. It sarted overheating because I didn't go through the correct coolant fill procedure.
What is the correct coolant fill procedures? That is also the reason I put a new radiator when I bought the car someone tried to put some kind of sealant but it didn't work, thanks!
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 02:30 PM
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With the engine running open the top-most bleed screw (where the upper connects to the thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw close it, but be careful not to strip the threads as it is made of soft brass. It might be a good idea to get someone to sit in your car and watch the temp gauge. You may have to bleed the system more than once, although one time should be enough. Hope that helps.
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 02:37 PM
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
With the engine running open the top-most bleed screw (where the upper connects to the thermostat housing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Once there are no more air bubbles coming out of the bleed screw close it, but be careful not to strip the threads as it is made of soft brass. It might be a good idea to get someone to sit in your car and watch the temp gauge. You may have to bleed the system more than once, although one time should be enough. Hope that helps.
Thanks, I 'll try this when I get home!
Old Jun 27, 2003 | 11:13 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally posted by matt94
I'll check on this and then get back to you, thanks!
had to go to dealer, great info. My car didn't have air deflector, bought one and now I am back on the road. Car didn't have one when I bought it, thanks for everyones info. Engine is now running cool. THANKS CAMAROZ28.COM FOR YOUR SITE!

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