LT1 distributor conversion
The benefits I see are: ease of unmaintained with the distrubtor, cap and rotor, plug wires, piece of mind from keeping it out of moisture. The cons I can think of are mostly pcm issues that could potentially not make it smoggable, could be wrong about that last part.
Your right on the last part, your going to run in to issues with the egr valve, it would have to be removed for clearance on the new crab style. No egr = no pass, even if it wasnt sniffed and had to pass visual, unless the inspector is Ray Charles or doesnt know what their looking at it, it'll fail.
Your right on the last part, your going to run in to issues with the egr valve, it would have to be removed for clearance on the new crab style. No egr = no pass, even if it wasnt sniffed and had to pass visual, unless the inspector is Ray Charles or doesnt know what their looking at it, it'll fail.
LMAO about Ray Charles. The egr does have to be removed from everything I've read. Not sure how one would get around the emissions testing.
Does anyone know where I can get my intake converted for a distributor? Also, does anyone know if Scott at www.lt1intake.com is still in business?
I saw this intake for sale over on third gen.
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/en...?highlight=lt1
Oops! That wasn't my intention. I started the thread to see if anyone could direct me to someone who could modify my intake and it morphed into me doing the work myself; just wanted to share the experience and assure folks it wasn't that hard to do if they decided to dothe same.
couldn't you use like an old gutted sbc points or small cap TPI distributor (or aftermarket) and still use the optispark without the rotor and plug wires. sorta like a crank trigger? I have also seen a billet cover for the opti when you use a coil pack conversion. I thought about this cause a buddy of mine has a 94 impala ss that is totalled and a 64 impala ss 283 powerglide. He wanted me to put the Lt1 and trans with computer and all in the 64, maybe even rear and brakes. He wanted to kinda keep it "retro" looking with the original valve covers with adapters and paint it old school chevy orange. I thought " why not use the old points distibuter and gut it set it up like a crank trigger" put it up on number one and phase it then put it in. We build racecars and all , so I thought it would work. Take all the spark energy away from the "actual" distirbutor.
Sure... the Delteq and Bailey LTCC multi-coil systems for the LT1 use the Opti optical sensor as a cam position sensor. I use it to feed a MoTeC M48Pro with an 8-channel ignition driver. The advantage of keeping the spark timing in the PCM (vs. the "old school" distributor) is the ability to program advance, without playing with weights and vacuum diaphragms. In the setup mentioned by the original poster, he's using the dual-synch distributor to achieve the same results. But some aftermarket ECU's like the MoTeC, with run off the Opti signals, and provide very high precision ignition timing.
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dbusch22
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



