LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT1 Bowtie Block

Old Jan 28, 2009 | 08:31 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
You are all salty now.
We will line up, but it won't prove a whole lot of anything since our terds are a night and day difference. Besides that I still need gears/tire that I can't afford right now...
Basically if I were going to do a build like this yeah.. I really wouldn't use behive springs since this isn't some Heinz57 heads/cam build. Surely it would last 8K. Yes it's not necessary to turn that kind of rpm. Not saying it's required, but if built right then higher rpm can yield more power. There's no way you can argue that. Aside from that I'm just trying to live my dream through the OP's with this block and stating what I would do... and you are pooping on my dream. How dare you.
I'll live this dream. You go build your dreamy BB and make my dream look silly.
A BRE motor will take care of you......
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by mdacton
there is no need to turn 8k.......
Truer words have almost never been said.

If you can make the power below 7000 rpm why stress the parts more than they need to be????


With such an expensive block I would hate to see a window in it.
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by mdacton
A BRE motor will take care of you......
I need that frantic smiley you used to have in your sig...

Originally Posted by WS Sick
Truer words have almost never been said.

If you can make the power below 7000 rpm why stress the parts more than they need to be????


With such an expensive block I would hate to see a window in it.
Are you serious? The only way that block would be "windowed" is if something stupid was done. If a big money block like that is purchased then it should be complemented with a quality rotating assembly. It's not like a bowtie block is made out of glass. Do you not know there are traditional SBC's out there turning 9000rpm that live on the street and strip?
If you want a certain power level then sure that point is understood.
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #79  
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Good news and bad news(for some). The block is here but the cylinder walls aren't much thicker then stock. So, looks like it's going to be a 414ci. If this was going to be an NA motor I might have gone for it anyway, but as I'm going to put a blower on it, I want as much wall thickness and gasket surface as I can get. If anyone is still interested I'll post more later.
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 05:02 PM
  #80  
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that sucks! it's a good thing you had it sonic checked then i reckon. as stated, good luck with the build and looking forward to the results.
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 08:08 PM
  #81  
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What did the wall thickness measure out at? I have seen them low as .090" on standard bore LT blocks.
Old Feb 6, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #82  
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Please post your progress. I know I'm very interested in the build. I'm sure others are to.
Old Feb 7, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #83  
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Yes we are
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:08 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by MachinistOne
What did the wall thickness measure out at? I have seen them low as .090" on standard bore LT blocks.
Damn didn't write it down, and now not sure! Think it was ~.120, wall thickness, with the current 4.120 bore.
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:28 AM
  #85  
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Onward, I have a set of LT4 heads that I had intended to use on the 396ci. engine. We believe that these heads would have been adequate for the 396ci. but not for the 414ci. So I've ordered a set of Dart Pro 215's which will have the pockets CNC'd.
Only two big decisions left. What "trim" for the blower, i.e. how much boost do I want to run, and what Cam?
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Z28SORR
Damn didn't write it down, and now not sure! Think it was ~.120, wall thickness, with the current 4.120 bore.
You need to know if that was between cylinders(typically thinnest) or on the thrust side of the bore.
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 09:38 PM
  #87  
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Wow just read this. Did not know there was ever a bowtie LT1 block. We race a "traditional" Pontiac powered car and our block is about $3000 for an aftermarket version (but a standard deck can be built to almost 600 ci). The head flow should be better, with the "400" bore size having less shrouding. We have seen heads pick up even if the valves were sized correctly to the bore. I think someone should get an aftermarket aluminum SBC and do a little welding and "massage" it to an LT1 lol.Put some CFE heads on it and turbo, go after some LSxs. I guess i like things the hard way having traditional Pontiac and LT1.
Old Feb 9, 2009 | 11:05 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by JD311
I think someone should get an aftermarket aluminum SBC and do a little welding and "massage" it to an LT1 lol.Put some CFE heads on it and turbo, go after some LSxs. I guess i like things the hard way having traditional Pontiac and LT1.
It has been done. The price is really not what most would consider worth it and would be only for the most die hard fans who want to be different and say they have a very unique "Lt1".

Gotta be at least a little bit crazy to tackle a project like that, but you have to admit its impressive - or at least interesting .
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 03:47 AM
  #89  
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Jeff Green is the guy to get in touch with if anybody wants an aluminum big bore LT1 block. http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...er.php?u=20443
It costs a bit more than $3k, but the Donovan block costs more than that to start out with. His price is comparable to the LSx block that RHS has now.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 07:06 PM
  #90  
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In all honesty it would really be no different than using a sbc vs an LT1 if you had both blocks of the same caliber. It is more or less for bragging rights ( just to say you have the BADDEST one in the country).

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