LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

LT headers smacking my car

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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 11:22 PM
  #16  
1.8ttolt1's Avatar
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no, stock is rubber to reduce noise and vibration. i don't imagine solid mounts would be much fun on a street car.

the stiffer you get the more you lose in comfort. if this is a daily driver i would not get solid mounts. polyurethane mounts will probably transmit as much vibration as you want in a daily driver.
Old Mar 17, 2004 | 11:25 PM
  #17  
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From: (SHOWING U MY TAILIGHTS)FaiRFieLD CaLiFoRNiA
ok if i go with poly my headers arnt gonna be smackin my car all day right?
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #18  
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From: (SHOWING U MY TAILIGHTS)FaiRFieLD CaLiFoRNiA
bump up
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:01 AM
  #19  
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I installed a cam and hooker LTs on my A4 car this fall and I decided to replace both motor mounts since they had 129K miles on them and looked pretty worn out. No hitting now.
I used polyurethane mounts.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:18 AM
  #20  
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how big of a PITA is replacing the motor mounts ?? is there a write up w/ pics ??
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #21  
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Originally posted by TransAm219
how big of a PITA is replacing the motor mounts ?? is there a write up w/ pics ??
They're a big PITA, or at least they were for me, doing it alone.

I'm not sure about the writeup, but I can tell you about it in a couple of sentences.

First of all, do one at a time, or you will most likely have problems aligning them later on.

There is one big/long bolt in the middle of each mount. You jack up the engine just a little bit so that you can remove it. I'd recommend loosening up the bolt on the other side as well so that it's easier to raise the engine.

Then you jack up the engine more so that you can remove the mount from the engine. Once it's removed, you will need to drill out the rivets of the old mounts to install the new polyurethane pieces.

The new mounts come with instructions on how to drill out those rivets and then reassemble the shells.

Once you do that, you attach the mount back to the block, but don't tighten the 3 bolts completely since you'll probably have to move it around a little bit for it to get back in place. Then put in the big bolt, then tighten the 3 bolts.

The procedure is not that complicated especially if you have a bunch of extensions and a friend but it gets complicated if you misalign the engine while changing them.
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 12:50 PM
  #22  
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well my new motor just got installed and put the poly mounts in at same time. My new Jet hots hit on drivers side and needed to be bent down. Probably knocked some coating off too

so not all headers will be ok w/just new mounts

at least if your unlucky like me!
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 01:02 PM
  #23  
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a lot of longtubes have these issues, mine hit the K member and the steering linkage



FYI POLY MOUNTS HAVE A HISTORY OF MELTING WITH LONGTUBES


There are quite a few guys on here that have done solid mounts and say it's not bad at all, I believe they are what I'm going to go with in the next few months
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 01:06 PM
  #24  
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right on guys...well since folks had problem with melting i think imma have to go with solid mounts because in the future im not trying to change themn again..
Old Mar 18, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the info , it dosent seem like my jet-hot coated headers get THAT hot and from what i have heard the solid mounts make you feel every vibration and rattle really well

Do the poly mounts have any big advantage over factory replacements ?
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