Im not quite sure what tools i will be needing to get the job done. I have a basic tool set, but no torque wrench. Im also wondering what repair manuals would be best for the non-mechanically inclined to aid in the procedure. One more thing...if anyone lives near sacramento CA, and wants to make some money in helping me out...it would be greatly appreciated!

 

You'll need a torque wrench to set the bolts back down to spec, no doubt about that.

A haynes manual will have the torque sequence and bolt torque specs, but honestly shbox.com will have all that stuff already so you won't need a manual.

As far as tools, aside from a torque wrench, you'll need a fuel line disconnect tool (optional as you can just lay the fuel rail to one side, although it will be in the way IMO), and a standard basical tool set should do, the bolts are 9/16"

 

YA KNOW WHATS FUNNY I HAD A LEAK AFTER CAM INSTALL WAS THE OPTI SEAL, RAN IT AND FOUND THE REAR OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD WAS LEAKING AS WELL. I HAD THE INTAKE OFF IN LESS THAN 13 MINUTES REALLY EASY. mAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE FUEL LINE FITTINGS. ANY TIPS ON MAKING SURE IT SEALS PROPERLY

 

After the RTV bead is down and the gaskets in place, use some wooden dowels or appropriate diameter pins to locate the manifold as it is lowered into position so the manifold doesn't have to be adjusted in place. The seal will work best if the manifold goes straight down and doesn't have to be shifted in order to get the bolts in.

Also, take note of the egr tube at the back. If it can be moved away from the intake at all, it will help to reduce the chance that the leak will re-occur. If the tube can't be moved, wrap it with high heat tape to insulate it from the passenger side rear of the manifold. This is thought to be one reason the intake leaks - due to the uneven heating.