I know the LT-1 and a regular old 350 cranks are different. Is there any visible way to tell?

I pulled my motor. Premptive rebuild. Good thing as the bearings were pretty worn, but not spun. The crank turned over just fine in the block. The crank appeared to be in great shape. My dad and I told the machine shop to only polish the crank. Today I go to the machine shop, and they told me they had to turn the crank 10/10. They did not call to tell me they were going to do work I did not authorize. I'm hoping they are not going to try to slip me a regular non LT-1 350 crank. So I would like to know how this will effect the clearances etc etc, or any other issues I might run into (this is if it is my LT-1 crank turned 10 under)?

Thanks for the advice:

ZMAN

 

the main difference is the rear main seal area

if your crank looks different then this i would then be worried

crank

 

Thanks

If it looks different then that, then the shop better be worried. I don't really think they are trying to jack me around. I also don't have a great feeling either, especially they should have called.

ZMAN

 

Ya will be fine with 10-10 just make sure the brgs are 10-10 and check your clearances and get at LEAST Clevitte "H" series and cam brgs. They are a little more but a LOT better.

Rod=.0025-.0027
Maims=.0027-.0030
Cam=.0040
Ya have to get a GOOD oil pump with the 3/4" pickup to keep up with these clearances.Don't know what ya are building,but ya can go a LITTLE less maybe .0005 on rods and mains.Get a Melling or a GOOD name brand pump and a blueprinted one if ya can afford it with the pickup already installed.Get the plate that bolts under the pump to stop oil from climbing the back of the pan under acceleration($10.00) and DON'T leave out the baffle.

All of this is just GOOD insurance.

 

Thanks

Only building it to last another 100k miles. I'm not stroking or even going to bore it 30 over. Having the rods cut for new bolts, the block is boiled, new plugs and the oil galleys cleaned out, the block mic'd. New rings. There wasn't even a hint of a ridge in any of the cylinders. New cam bearings, rod and main bearings. Having a valve job done, heads milled, and cleaned. I'm changing my hot-cam to a 224/236 .535/.555 (1.6's) comp cam ground on a 112 lobe sep. So this car is my daily driver, even in the winter. Blizzak's are awesome.


Will the rear main seal housing fit or be the same as the one for a regular 350 crank?

ZMAN

 

Get the Clevitte brgs,do the correct clearances,and a good pump and it will last that next 100,000 miles.