Alright sorry took me so long to reply so i took the heater core out and no leaks and it looks fine. Im still not getting good heat from the heater even worse then before and sensor keeps coming on so i just disconnected it. Its not leaking at all im stumped

 

...but did you flush it and the hoses out like is described on my website?

 

Yeah I have done everything I can think of I changed the thermostat twice changed all the hoses took the heater core off looked under the car with a flash light changed the radiator cap and it builds pressure can't find any leaks I started to think maybe head gasket but I'm not losing any coolant at all and no milk in the oil and no smoke out of the back. I also bled the system about 5 times 45 min each and changed the fluid and even messured the coolant to water ratio. The only thing left to change is water pump but that's not leaking and it builds pressure and it isn't over heating

 

After the engine is at operating temperature, are both the heater hoses warm? Are you sure the temperature door is working? It is controlled by a cable from the temp ****.

 

The hoses get hot and so does the heater core and as soon as you turn the heater on the heater core cools off. Il check the temp control when i get home

 

Yes it could have something to do with your battery. sometimes when a sensor keeps lighting up all you need to do is unhook the battery and hook it back up which will reset the trouble codes. Also since you already changed your sensor and its still doing that. Make sure you fill your radiator to the cap while the car is not running and then turn the car on and let it idle. It should suck some water down into the radiator just feel it up to the top and put the cap on that way you dont get any bubble pockets of air in your water pump. If none of this works then it could just be you pcm and yes they do go bad and you have to get them reprogrammed. Its a relatively cheap service. theres a website called lt1tunning.com good web site.

 

oh what the heck? smile and wave. low coolant light.

 

The light is off after just unhooking the sensor but the heater still is not working. It completely stopped working and the the control switch seems to be working just fine. Could it be a clog in the radiator that just not getting coolant where it needs to be or the actual heater core. Also when i got the heater working last time the air was really humid and its not humid outside it also smelled like coolant a little bit

 

I think you mentioned in an earlier post that everything gets hot...the hoses and the heater core...until you turn the heater on. What does that mean, exactly? With the temperature **** in the warmest position, is everything hot? Does it cool off once you turn on the fan? I'm not busting your chops, I just don't exactly understand. Anyway, if things get hot it is working properly. I run a 160 thermostat and the air is just warm even though the flow is normal.....

 

The low coolant sensor is not attached to the PCM, and does not set a "trouble code". Its a simple electrical circuit, direct to the light on the dash.

The correct way to fill the LT1 reverse flow cooling system, and bleed the air out, is shown on Shoebox's website.

 

Im sorry what i ment is that everything gets hot like hoses and everything. The heater core gets hot but as soon as you turn on the heater the heater core cools off idk if that is normal. The temp never gets past the first notch. The heater is on the hottest setting and its just not getting hot

 

Did you ever check the temp door (and I mean to see if the **** is really moving it)? You said you had the heater core out, but was it clear and not clogged? This thread seems to be going around and around and not getting anywhere.

 

How are you able to tell the heater core cools down when you turn on the control? How are you accessing it? It feels hot when you are managing to touch the core, and as soon as you turn on the heater control, the heater core itself gets cool?

Its really hard to understand what you are describing.

Is your selector set to A/C or defrost, in which case you might feel cold air from the AC evaporator????

 

Im really Sorry guys i'm just as confused as you guys are. Yes i checked the door flap it seems to be working. About the heater core i still have the dash apart and when i touch it when the heater is not on it is hot but as soon as the heater turns on it gets cool. when i took the heater core out i didnt see anything that was blocking it. The coolant sensor is not coming on after disconnecting it and i have been trying both the air conditioning and defroster and they are still blowing out cool air it isnt cold but its barley warm. If im sitting at a stop light or driving around at low speeds the car starts to get up to about 210 but even if sitting the fans come on and it goes back down. Im going to be doing a tune up tomorrow and i have a lifetime warranty on the water pump so would it be wise to take it off and just change it? see if that fixes the issue

 

idk-but this is only a suggestion-is it possible for you to procure (borrow, purchase, etc.) a laser thermometer? this would really help in locating coolant flow problems, heat exchange from the core-actual temp of the coolant into the core, actual temp of the core, actual temp of the coolant out of the core-you get my diagnostic take on this? laser thermometers are fairly inexpensive nowadays and can be used for trouble shooting many other automotive problems. it probably will help you start to narrow this problem down.