CANTONRACER

Elaborate on that...

mdacton

thats what I don't get...tq to yeild is to strech the bolt......after it has been streched the its not going to shrink again or strech more.....

speed_demon24

Call up APR they can explain it alot better than I can...

speed_demon24

It won't shrink, but it will stretch and break, and if it doesnt break it will be alot weaker than before.

mdenz3

The bolts are designed to stretch a precise amount to achive accurate clamping force and very balanced clamping force bolt to bolt. Once stretched they will not go back and CAN stretch more (all bolts will stretch at some point). By reusing them your not garunteed to get proper clamping force or an even clamping force bolt to bolt. My question to you is why take a risk over a $50 part?? Some of you spend several thousand on ported heads but not $50 on head bolts?
Even if your just replacing a head gasket why risk premature failure of the new gaskets over somthing so stupid?

mdacton

^^ your right...its $50 well spent

Jazsun

When I have the heads off for the gasket swamp, should they be taken somewhere and checked for warpage (sp?) and be re-surfaced? Is re-surfacing really necessary?

mdenz3

You can check them yourself with a strait edge (make sure its a high quality one not some cheap middle school ruler) and a feeler gauge. If you lay the strait edge across the head and you can fit a .001" feeler gauge under the strait edge any where you want to get them resurfaced. If you do need them resurfaced i'd get a valve job too while they are at the shop. They charged me $180 for everything when i had mine done.

mvnatedog

I tried again on the fuel lines today. I'm starting to think the supply line is broken, the return line came off easily, but I still can't get the supply off at all. I then tried removing the whole fuel rail with the fuel lines connected, and I couldn't get it out either. Is it just supposed to wiggle out? I don't have to loosen the injectors or anything?

SS RRR

I believe those who've reused torque to yeild bolts before who've had no problems, however for me I'd rather have the piece of mind from buying new bolts. Just because they've used them with success doesn't mean you will. ARP's are the way to go. From what I remember they are about the same or slightly cheaper than GM stock bolts anyway after figuring shipping costs from Summit.
I'd go with either stock GM head gaskets or FelPro's. If Checker sells FelPro then go for it.
Drivers side is a piece of cake to get off. The passenger side may be a different animal. As mentioned you must loosen the two bolts that hold the power steering pump on the acc. bracket. These bolts go through the bracket and fasten to the front of the cyl. head. There are also two (I think they're 9/16) bolts that fasten the acc. bracket to the cylinder head. One is directly behind the power steering pump and the other is hidden to the right of the bolt behind the power steering pump and to the right (towards drivers side). For the bolt behind the PSP it's much easier to use an offset box end wrench since you'll have clearance issues with a regular socket and wrench.
Make absolutely sure you have loosened and removed ALL cylinder head bolts before trying to remove head from block. There are 17 of them on each head.
Also... the steam pipe banjo bolts must be removed. They can be a bit of a challenge especially if they've never been loosened before. I've had to use a rubber mallet on a wrench to loosen them before. They can be very stubborn. The original banjo bolts are either a funny size or they are a standard size. I can't remember exactly. Seems like the newer banjo bolts that GM sells are 15mm so you'll have to explore what fits best before you apply any torque to the bolts. If you can't get them off then just write it off and cut the coolant line that goes between both heads. You will need four new banjo bolt seals. Two for each side. One that sandwhiches between the head and steam pipe and another that is between the steam pipe and bolt.
You may have some clearance issues with your heater ducting as well as a heater core hose if you use 1/2" stuff to loosen the bolts. I have to remove one of the hoses and set it aside as well as pressing rather firmly on one of the lower/rear head bolts where the heater ducting interferes. I cracked the ducting, but it's nothing a little fiberglass rosin won't fix.
As mentioned the only components you need to remove are the pushrods unless you have aftermarket rockers that will not push to the side for enough clearance to take the pushrod out.

Jazsun

Which bolts should locktite be applied to? Head/intake?

CANTONRACER

I use silicone on bolts....

speed_demon24

None, use ARP thread sealer, it is also a lube for the bolts so you get the right torque on them.

mvnatedog

Few more random questions from stuff I did today. I'm all ready to pull the intake manifold tomorrow.

1) What size bolts are the exhaust manifolds? They will be the next thing I attempt after I pull the intake manifold, and I need to make sure I have the correct socket. Also, I hear they are a pain to get to and remove, any tips to make this easier? I'm going to soak as many of the bolts as I can see in PB Blaster or similar tonight.

2) Also, I broke off the small bolt that holds the bracket for one of the EVAP components to the intake manifold, how do I get it out? Drill? Along the same lines, a few of the electrical connectors have literally crumbled in my hands when I have tried to remove them. The actual connectors are OK, but the colored tabs are generally what breaks off. Are these going to constantly fall out when I put everything back together, or is it not a big deal? Any other way to secure them?

SS RRR

Just a dab... nothing crazy.