stock is .050, I'm running .027 4.01 bore cometics and with 55.6cc chambers my compression is 11-11.1:1.

 

Thanks for the link to those bolts, I went ahead and ordered them as well as the thread sealer. As far as gaskets go, all I should need are the head gaskets, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and valve cover gaskets. Any others? I'll probably just get these at Checker, since they seem to have pretty reasonable prices; I will try to pick up the Impala HG though.

 

I am in the exact same boat as the thread creator. I have a questions as well, hopefully this isn't considered hi-jacking.


1) the intake bolts, those are re-usable correct?
2) Where do I put sealant and what kind when re-installing the intake manifold
3) I am putting on edelbrock headers while doing the head gasket swamp If I buy new stock felpro header gaskets will these work w/ the aftermarket headers?
4) Do I put RTV on the header gaskets?

 

You can reuse the stock headbolts...never once have I ever seen a issue because someone has. If you say you cannot...prove it...100 lbs of torque is 100 lbs of torque on a used bolt vs. a new bolt.

You can run the Felpro 1094 gasket with a thickness of .015" to give yourself a nice bump in compression also.

 

I've never heard of the Felpro 1094 .015" before?

 

Most people never have....and if memory serves me correct with the piston in the hole around .030" stock, that would give you a good in theory quench....

But it has been sometime since I ran such gaskets on a stocker motor.

 

No worries about hijacking, I probably would have most of the same questions eventually.

BTW, from what I have read on here, I'm pretty sure you can reuse the intake manifold bolts.

 

Just because you torque them to the same torque doesn't mean the have the same clamping force, which they don't.

 

Some more Questions:

1) The header block and intake manifold surfaces are suppose to scraped of all the old gasket correct? Just a regular scrapper w/ a razer blade should do?

 

Yep, those surfaces need to be completely clean to prevent any leakage. A scrapper with razor blade will do the trick.

 

This is just a small sampling of whats available on line.

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/040303.htm
http://www.robbos.com.au/myweb/Tech_Bolts.htm
http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/a...nutsnbolts.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us70480.htm
http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Afte...oHeadBoltSets/
http://www.mondello.com/Pages/Articles/1/1.htm
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt30714.htm
http://www.oliver-rods.com/library/libraryindex.html

Now all these scientist and engineers could be wrong or the ****** on here that are telling you to reuse your TTY head bolts could be wrong!!! It's up to you.

 

1) Yes
2) You use black RTV on the block between the heads where the intake manifold touches it.
3) Yes they should
4) NO you shouldn't have to.

You will probabl need an throttlebody to intake gasket, and EGR gaskets as well. Try to get an intake gasket kit. The Felpro one i bought came with the intake gaskets, Black RTV, throttle body gasket, and the EGR gaskets.
EDIT: The Kit is part number MS95580, and it only comes with the EGR tube gasket not the EGR valve gasket.

 

Thanks a lot, mdenz3.

Any links to where we could find a kit like that?

 

If you have a Checker/Schucks/Kragen around you, they carry it, it seems:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=102&PTSet=A

So I got started today, and had a few questions as I went along:

1) I opened the plug on the bottom of the radiator to drain the coolant, and only got about a gallon of coolant out. I was expecting at least two or three, since the whole system holds 15 L. I'm assuming this means I only drained whatever was in the radiator. Is this OK? Should I open the block drain plug also, or is that not necessary for what I'm doing?
2) I stopped because I couldn't seem to get the fuel lines disconnected from the fuel rail. I got the disconnect tool to "click" in to the line, but I couldn't get it to come apart. I tried pulling straight back on the line, wobbling it, twisting, and pushing up on the bottom of the fitting. Is there some trick to this, or am I just not pulling hard enough?

 

1) If you remove the knock sensor on the P. side and the plug where the knock senor souwld be on the D. side it will pretty much drain the block. make sure you completely bleed the cooling system when you reassemble.
2) Method that worked for me:
a) push fuel line towards fuel rail
b) place tool on line and push away from rail while holding the fuel line against the rail
c) keep pressure on tool by pushing away from fuel rail and pull fuel line out
It a try or two for me too.