I have a 97 WS6 M6, and i want to put long tubes headers on with no air or ne of that emmissions crap on, do i just take that egr stuff off and get it retuned and it will be alright? Another question is that i want to install my headers myself how hard is it to do, do i have to raise the motor up at all to fit them in? Last question i want to do true dual all the way, but on the drivers side it seems really tight to put a 2.5 in pipe in there, it seems that it might be blocking my oil filter too. Is it really worth doing it?

dave,

 

First, at least on 94's I just tossed mine, and blocked the EGR holes on the rear of the intake. Cut out the AIR stuff and ws done. Now I believe youll get a code on OBDII cars so you'll want to program it out. Duals the whole way is hard and sometimes expensive. I'd go either duals dumping before the axle or a nice catback. You can install them yourselve, I did, get a good jack and some decently high jackstands. I didnt move the motor at all just removed all the extra stuff, starter, steering, intake stuff, etc. Did I miss any?

-Dustin-

 

Computer retune to fix the check engine lights is all you need. You may or maynot need to raise the engine it varies from car to car. Most likely will though. A lift is best if you have access. If not, get the car off the ground as high as you can safely. As for the duals, don't even bother. No ground clearance at all and there is usually a fairly good drone associated with them. Especially if you do the turn downs. My advice is to run the y-pipe to go with the headers and run a good catback such as the Hooker. I can't tell you how many times people end up changing out the dual system after just a few months. Only the hardcore people keep them. Power of the dual vs the setup I mentioned above won't be much more at all if any on a stock motor. Good luck!

 

You will need to have the EGR and AIR edited out of the PCM along with the Rear 02s if you run a cat-less y-pipe with those long tubes. The install is not hard, just time consuming. I sprayed down all of the old stuff with PB blaster before I started turning wrenches and I didn't snap a single bolt or even fight any for that matter. Also, I didn't have to jack the motor up. What I did have to do was for the drivers side: Remove the steering linkage and coolant temp. sensor and jacked the car up really high and slid the header in from bottom. Passenger side: Removed the starter, alternator, valve cover, oil dipstick, and heat shields and got the header in from up top (won't go in from bottom). Two people makes the job easier, one on top and one on bottom to guide the the headers to avoid scratches. Good luck.