Well, with 195,xxx miles on the clock, it looks like my stock LT-1 is starting to head towards retirement, or refurbishment.

Oil analysis is showing bearing material wear rates heading skyward. Oil pressure is good, as is oil consumption, so the engine's demise is not imminent.

At one point I was toying with swapping in an LS-1 engine, but as I research into the details I just don't think it's worth it. She's my DD, doesn't get autocrossed any more, but does pass the occasional car.

So, for the moment, I'm looking at a long block swap. What pitfalls do I need to look out for? This is a '94 LT-1, so it's got the unvented Opti and is OBD-I.

What would change on a long block? I can't think of anything, but I'm no expert.

TIA, and have a good one,
Mike

 

It should be a matter of swapping parts from one block to the new one. Get ARP head bolts as the factory ones are good for ONE time use.

 

Well, one of the reasons I was looking at a long block was to get a refreshed valvetrain; I'd assume new fasteners throughout.

Thanks for the reply; your thinking is right about what I was thinking.

Have a good one,
Mike

 

eh, ls1 swap would be good for the "novelty" factor. but idk, it definately would not be easier. just get 'er rebuilt. maybe throw a light heads and cam package on it. that should make it fun.

 

Get a shortblock. Have your heads ported and add RRs, springs, etc. to support your new cam. Much easier to add the heads, cam etc when the shortblock is on a stand. Probably be close price wise to get a short block, and use what you can from your current engine than to find a long block which would not give you nearly the performance. JMHO

 

I would save the ARP's for the ROD bolts... I built my 383 reusing the stock head bolts without issue.. just my $.02

 

They are TTY bolts and not designed to be used more than once. If ya want to have the correct clamping force ya replace them.

 

I think the TTY bolts didn't go into use until '96, but either way - a set of arp bolts is cheap.

 

Well, I ended up starting another thread to help my aching head:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...96#post4635096

Interesting comments on the ARP bolts: if I'm not going to be bumping up the rev limiter (which this car never sees), what's wrong with new OE bolts?

See you at the other thread, and have a good one,
Mike

 

If you are goint with a basically a stock rebuild, there is nothing wrong with OEM bolts, but considering the ARPs are pretty cheap as well, they probably will run around the same, so it doesn't hurt.

 

They sell refurbished LT1 long blocks minus the intake at Auto Zone for 1800 and with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty.