The thousands of other LT1s that have the coil/ICM in the stock location and working fine would suggest there is something in particular and out of the ordinary affecting this car.

 

I'll show photos later with the a gun registering the temperature at the new location and the original location. This is my guess:
1. I have uncoated stainless headers (get hotter than stock manifolds)
2. I have milled heads (higher compression=warmer)

I am guessing the heat sink was absorbing the heat from the heads and heating up the icm. I had two GM master techs helping me and they also agreed.
So in a way, my car is out of the ordinary because how many cars are running milled heads and LPP headers? Maybe 50?

I ran spark tests, used a tech 1, checked sensors. Everything pointed to the icm. I know a lot of you think this must be illogical based on a proven track record, but it all pointed to an icm. If you touched it in the stock position after 5min of operating it burned you. Literally it burned your finger. So this is what I did. It took 10 minutes and about $5 in parts. Used washers, 2 1/4 self tapping screws and extended the wires. Photos to come later.

 

A lot of us run uncoated stainless headers and more compression and have never had a problem with the module tight to the head.

 

Yes this is a rare case, but obviously remote mounting the icm corrected the problem. Also take into consideration the ambient temp, driving conditions, comp ratio, camshaft overlap into consideration. Who's to say even driving habits might case his engine bay to run 10 degrees hotter than "most who have not had this problem?" That 10 degree difference could have been what caused the icm to have premature failure. I know the fix isnt a textbook abets repair...however this isnt a stock LT1. GM diagnosis was used, DTC's were checked and the flow chart was used. That flow chart used to pinpoint the icm having a internal fault. What kills electrical ignition components? Heat.

So in conclusion the ICM was the failed part. Relocating it to the shock tower was a preventative measure and a quick fix. Only time will tell if tis solved the problem, and maybe one day this thread will help someone with the same problem! Go shadetree!

 

here is a pic:

 

I have been chaisng a problem that wil not show its face lol and I know that it is acting just like a bad ICM. In fact the ICM was bad so I bought a new Delco and stuck it in there with the thermo grease and figured I was good to go until it stranded me again.
I thought what was happeneing was when it was transitioning from open to closed loop. That wasnt the case, it was happening due to heat sink, but the ICM still tests good.

I have my car in 100 pieces ATM. I flushed the radiator and got a ton of sludge out of it, I did the same with the heater core and the block. My temp gauge always read fine, however I didnt get as much water as I was supposed to out of the radiator....maybe that was causing the higher temps in my car IDK we shall see....I had the spaced out ICM mod previously, now thinking about a remote mounting myself lol

 

I had four washers on each side and got about 80 miles on my 2nd icm. After realizing that made no difference my friend actually came up with this idea. It was too easy not to at least try. I have only put 25 miles on it since the switch but I haven't been able to do that in 8 months.