Longtube install, driver's side problem
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 63
The way I have jacked motors up in the past is to take a 2"X4" and cut a v notch in the top then put it up under the crank and put the jack under the board. Then jack up Works pretty well and keeps you from putting the jack against something and messing it up.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 437
From: Benton, AR
Well I jacked the car with a 3 ton floor jack and put stands under the kmember... wheels are about 18" off the ground and I still can't manage to get the header in... what's the trick? 
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 466
From: Cypress, TX
driver's side engine mount through bolt, jacked the engine up about
1-2" and slid the header right on up.
EDIT: I didnt pay attention to which headers you have, but with Pacesetters,
I've read you have to remove the steering shaft.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 220
The "TRICK" is "PATIANCE" & alittle criativity lol, you'll see that the header will go in from the bottom, changeing angles helps too, once it clears the tubes, its in, just go back on top & puller up into place, i'm sure i read in your earlier post you did disconnect the steering shaft right? if not, you need to do this.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 746
From: Rochester Hills, MI
You will need the whole car lifted, not just the front. The car has to be high enough for you to rotate the header far enough. If you need more height than your jackstands provide, squares of 2x12 or similar under the jackstands add height.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 437
From: Benton, AR
What's the safest way to lifting the whole car? Should I jack up under the differential and put stands under the rear end? Or should I do the front first, then the rear? I've never jacked the whole car up before.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 466
From: Cypress, TX
then raise the other end of the car to the same height, then raise one end
to the full height, then raise the other end the same height. You do not want
to chance that an extreme angle would allow the weight to shift the car to
either fall to the front or rear.
This is how I got my car up safely:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...37393294327586
I built 4 wooden (adjustable height) wheel stands - the jack stands are
more-or-less there to stabilize the body.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 502
From: Central Mass and NH
Are you going to be eliminateing the Air pipes, if not, you don't need to take it all out, just the fittings on the manifolds, disconnect the hoses & slide them off, don't get me wrong (not at all trying to be a smartazz) but i don't understand what the hassle is with these PS LT installs that i keep hearing, the "header install" itself is a breeze, most of the other stuff is a PITA 
, you don't need to loosen or lift the engine at all on these cars with the Pacesetters, you just need to find a way to safely lift that car up, you really should have prepared yourself for this & found steady flat ground before starting the project, i'm new to these F bodies, the biggest PITA that i found with the whole install was that stupid ORY pipe, that sucker was a challange along with getting the stock manifolds off, other then that, it all went fairly easy.
Bottom line, if you need to re-position the car so you can jack it up on all 4 stands, this will make the job a whole lot easier.
I set my rear stands on the rearend houseing, the front ones i placed right where the body bolts are on the frame just behind the lower control arms, then just keep jacking the car up F&R 2-3 notches at a time on the jacks untill its up there, then you'll find that the drivers side headers will FALL right in place, hell you don't even need to take the oil filter off like some claim, just be careful with the temp sender that you don't break it. here is a few pix so you can see how high it should be.
, you don't need to loosen or lift the engine at all on these cars with the Pacesetters, you just need to find a way to safely lift that car up, you really should have prepared yourself for this & found steady flat ground before starting the project, i'm new to these F bodies, the biggest PITA that i found with the whole install was that stupid ORY pipe, that sucker was a challange along with getting the stock manifolds off, other then that, it all went fairly easy.Bottom line, if you need to re-position the car so you can jack it up on all 4 stands, this will make the job a whole lot easier.
I set my rear stands on the rearend houseing, the front ones i placed right where the body bolts are on the frame just behind the lower control arms, then just keep jacking the car up F&R 2-3 notches at a time on the jacks untill its up there, then you'll find that the drivers side headers will FALL right in place, hell you don't even need to take the oil filter off like some claim, just be careful with the temp sender that you don't break it. here is a few pix so you can see how high it should be.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 220
I've heard this before, i've run header wrap on a a set for over 2 yrs. & NEVER had rust, & the car stayed outside (granted it was a trailer car) but still, never an issue, this wrap will allow air to get in-between, plus this is a blanket style wrap, so it can breath better, i was also told the paint would fly off these headers (at start up) & would look like ****, they still look great after 2 months, where do you think FIRE, do you realize how much constant heat these wraps will take, try 2000*F, i never heard of anyones car catching on fire with this high heat wrap, sure, they may not look pretty, but they do the job, my wires are thanking me each time i run it, & they are run in the stock location.
When or if someone shows me a fire that was DIRECTELY cause from this wrap, i'll take mine off ASAP, then i'll file a law suite against the company lol.
When or if someone shows me a fire that was DIRECTELY cause from this wrap, i'll take mine off ASAP, then i'll file a law suite against the company lol.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 220
.After reading some of the bad stories about the PS Coated headers, i didn't have the funds for an 800.00 stainless set, so i opt to go this way. Its funny how i get a laugh on here, but everytime i'm at the track & lift the hood, i'm always getting either "where did you get that stuff" & "does it work" or "thats a smart idea" "i'll bet your wires are thanking you", never a - comment, go figure. The main issue is it'll start flakeing apart in time from the heat, i drive this car to the track (120 mile round trip), but if you have a trailer car, it'll last along time.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 220
Thats true, but i'm sure i'll never have too, Yes, disconnect the end from the Rack & pinion side (take the bolt out) then loosen the bolt on the steering shaft side, it'll then slide up & come off the rack-pinion end, set the arm to the side.