got most of my car apart to install my long tubes when the come. i have removed the AIR and the EGR. my ypipe is down, and my manifolds are off. i removed the stock spark plug wires, and i wanted to do OVC but i dont think i bought the right wire set. Is it ok to run them throught the stock locations? i bought taylor 8mm spyro wires.

List for install:

1. LONGTUBES of course
2. New y-pipe
3. felpro gaskets
4. cool tape
5. heat shield pad
6. stage 8 header bolts (not buying) am i ok using normal bolts?
7. O2 extentions (im going to splice them to make longer)
8. zip ties


is there anything else i'm going to need?

i was going to use the egr pipe insted of a block plate, i was going to crimp it off.

I'm not going to flash my computer or buy a LT4 KM. will it run right without having my egr or air hooked up?

can somebody email me a list of everything i need, i'm tring to save as much money as possible.

thanks

 

What year car do you have? If you dont get the computer programmed you will get a code most likely for no EGR or Air pump....

 

its a 97 OBD2, i already have a bad AIR thingy and my SES light is already on, it doesnt bother me. will it hurt performance without a programmed pcm?

 

I had the same problem with my OTVC looms, I ended up just not using them and running the wires through the stock locations (the heatshield along the bottom of the heads). I have noticed none of them touching, and I have had flawless performance. I also used the bolts that came with my headers (Jet-Hot) and I had no trouble there either, so I guess it just depends on who you ask.

 

What does TTT mean?

 

TTT = To The Top

I bought some cut to length msd superconductors and some cheap autozone looms and I cut and bent the looms and bolted them onto the valve cover. The OVC setup may look cheap (and it was ) but it has worked flawlessly for almost a year now.

I will say that those longtubes are considerably louder than the stock manifolds and so you should at the least pick up a LT4 knock MODULE. If you have a scan tool I'm confident you'll find that you're getting a LOT of false knock WOT. Retarded timimg will really hurt performance.

I removed my air and egr also (I just stuffed a cork in the egr and sealed it with RTV). Yes you will get a code - but you said you're already getting a code and the light doesn't really bother you so... I guess it's your call. I'm not sure but it may be that the PCM won't go into open loop if the SES is on. If that's the case then you for sure need a reprogram - maybe one of the techs here could verify or discredit that.. I'm really not sure. Anyways, I just got my pcmforless program back and it did make a noticeable difference as well as getting rid of that pesky SES light.

Oh, and what are you doing with the cats? If you keep them then I think you'll need an extension for the rear o2 sensors as well as the front 02 sensors. If you ditch the cats then the rear o2's serve no purpose other than checking up on the cats and can be removed (this will also throw a code and set off the SES light). Anyways, I can't say for sure about the rear sensor extensions because I unplugged them when I removed the cats.

Oh, and the Stage 8's are pretty helpful; you should really get a set. I found that alan head to be a big benefit on some of those hard to reach bolts.

Also, buy some NGK TR 55 or your choice of plugs as those should be changed when you have the manifolds off.

Last on your list should be:
-A LOT of patience
-A LOT of bandages for you busted up knuckles and arms

Have fun,