Whats teh difference between stage 8 regular locking fastners and the ones with teh 1/2" flange like is it a spacer so they stick 1/2" further out so they are easier to put on or what ever? A few of mine backed out suddenly, didnt move for 2 weeks then over 2 or 3 days, 3 of them totally fell off, lol. BTW I didnt have the locks on them.

 

They aren't locking fasteners if you don't put the locks on them.

 

.... they have to be trimmed to fit on the bolts and I was going to swap gaskets a few weeks later. so anyways whats teh difference?

 

Your description is vague, but i am assuming you have stage 8 bolts. They come with hex washers and e-clips. After installing bolts, hex washers go on (the bolt may have to be slightly rotated to allow the washer on). A couple of washers may have to be trimmed to slide next to the header tube. Then the e-clips snap on to secure the washers. I had to dremel a couple of the e-clips also. I hope this helps, update us...

PS. They are easy to remove anyway, change the gaskets now and be done with it...

 

yeah im changing my gaskets before I do anything else including drive it much. Im having trouble popping off the locks is there an easy way to do it or do you just have to try harder...?

 

Popping the eclips? It takes a little care, patience, and positioning. A couple, i had to just hope that they hit the ground. The header gaskets are a relatively easy project. Use a little hook pick to get them, with your finger holding them against the tool.

 

TTT. wondering the same question.
LS1Speed.com -> LT1 Header bolts -> Stage 8 has 2 different kinds, one is regular and one has a 1/2 inch flange. whats the difference?

 

Do yourself a solid and use your stage 8s for sinkers. Get yourself some ARP 1" 12 pts.

You will have to retorque once in awhile (which you should anyway) but you won't have to screw with those locks. JMHO

 

Do the ARP bolts have smaller heads than what the headers come with? cuz the bolt heads are basically touching the primaries and i cant get a socket/open wrench around em. The stage 8's have allen heads on em so that makes it easier. so once again...do the ARP's have smaller heads on em making them easier to get to and tighten?

 

Actually, I don't know. My 12pt ARPs seem to be quite small and are not so close to my SLP Dual-Cat shorties that they aren't snug against my primaries.

I have to use a small closed-end 12 pt wrench to retorque the hard-to-get to bolts.

One needs to be creative when it comes to getting at the PIA fasteners and plugs in an F-Body.

I just figured that I didn't want to deal with the Stage 8 lockers. Seems to me, that even if you get them torqued and locked initially, that they might need a bit more torqing later on and you'd have to undo the locks again (risking losing them etc.) When if you have the right tools and technique down, you just have to roll up your sleeves, keep the first-aid kit handy, and get the job done.

I believe the SLPs come with the 12 pts, but I prefer going with ARP when I can. 12 pts provides you more angles to get the wrench around.JMHO

 

Forget about those goofy cumbersome lock tab washer and bolt combos! Pick up some of these: www.go-breslin.com. They're really easy to put on, they don't back out, and they look GREAT! I have them in stainless.

 

too late I have the stage 8's ah well whatever