RUFST

first off i don't understand b/c i read all of the threads on here and you guys 383's n/a puts down close to 500 i said close like 475 etc...this guy tells me it will make b/t 420-440ishrwhp n/a i would like to know why...here's the list

383 LT1 Built for 150 nitrous
-Callies Dragonslayer 3.750 Crankshaft
-Comp Cams Hydraulic Lifters
-Compstar 6.000'' Connecting Rods
-Diamond Pistons
-Diamond Pro-Select Rings
-Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
-Cloyes Adjustable Timing Set
-Felpro Head Gaskets
-E.T Performance CNC Lt1 Heads
-Chromoly Pushrods
-Crane Self aligning 1.6 Rockers
-Meling High Volume Oil Pump
-Clevite Rod Bearings
-Clevite Cam Bearings
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-Gasket and Seal Package
-Fully Machined w/Deck Plates
-Blueprine Assembly
-Felpro Intake Gaskets
-Port Matched LT1 Intake
-42# Injectors
-Remove and Reinstall Engine
-Dyno & Tune
-Hooker Cermaic coated long tubes
-magnaflow catback with cut out
-Header Gaskets
-NGK Spark Plugs
-MSD Spark Plug Wires
-Walbro Fuel Pump
-58mm throttle body
--------------------$11,500------------------------

am i getting ripped or will that make more power than that...now saying that i told him it's not a full blown race car i want to still be able to take me and my wife out on sunday drives in it, i want it to still be pretty streetable if you know what i mean

thanks

asudecat

The guy is most likely right. Your not gonna get up to the 475rwhp range unless you go with bigger heads and intake. And that would even be tough.
Look into some bigger heads. AFR's and a LT4 intake or even a Victor intake if the money allows you. That's if you want the 475-500rwhp range.
You might want to give Lloyd Elliot a call on some AFR LT4 heads and LT4 intake.
www.eportworks.com

FASTFATBOY

I would use stock replacement lifters and a stock replacement oil pump. IMO the Compstar rods are not worth the money over a properly prepped set of non powder metal old school small block 5.7 rods, If all you are are gonna spray is a 150 shot, you just have to order the correct piston to go with them.


Just so you know MOST 383's on here make 420/430 RWHP, very few break 450 RWHP or higher mark and almost all of those are six speed cars. 475 RWHP and up are few and far between.

Most of the cars making 450 RWHP and better have a head and/or intake setup that did not come on the car.



David

1racerdude

Ya don't need the high dollar crank and the adj. timing set.Ya can't change the ICL on the cam,if it's wrong ya need to change cam's.A SKAT will do the same job for less money.
Ya should get Total Seal gapless rings.
Larger flowing heads(=smaller cam)
Different intake
Ya need Clevitte cam brgs too.
The rods are over kill-- Probe 4340 stroker rods.
That's not a bad price for parts and machine work,not great, but not bad.How much is assembly?
All of this is IMO and I build a couple of these a year.
Ya can only turn 7000 with the factory computer.Unless ya are going with a 2-2500 dollar Fast system or the likes all the high dollar bottom end is unnecessary,it ain't a NHRA Pro Stock.

JustNO

If you want drivability the important thing will be the camshaft choice.. Also there are lots of people who use their cars daily with a GM847 (big cam)

-I heard that Victor Jr intakes are not recommended for street use.. Is it true?
How much cfm loss with a LT4 intake ?? For example 288cfm @.600 (AFR 210cc) how much of it will be loss? %10? SO it will be 260? very bad..

1racerdude

Stock type intake will loose more than that,maybe 12-15%.At 15% that will make 503FWHP,434RWHP with an auto and everything else spot on(that usually doesn't happen) So ya can look for less power than the 503.
There are a lot better cams out there than the Gm847 and they will make more power.There are better heads also.

JustNO

What do you talking about? That %15 loose between crank and tires.. I'm talking about loss of cfm after LT4 intake..
I mean, for example heads flow 288cfm @.600, but after you place the heads under intake manifold you loose some cfm, and I ask the percentage of this loose.. You are talking about rear end loose.. (flywheel hp and rear wheel hp)

1racerdude

That is exactly what ya got the stock style intake loosing 12-15% of the head airflow= 244@15% loss.
That can make 503RWHP count on less,and the drivetrain loss of 18% will give ya the RWHP numbers with an auto.
Ya understand now?

JustNO

ohh 244cfm?!! I'm lucky to have LT4 intake.. I wish my loss will be less than %10.. I already know the drivetrain loss, I just asked cfm loss after intake manifold..
thanks

1racerdude

Ya can figure a 10% loss with a good sheetmetal intake.Anything else is going to be way more.
LT-4 is about the same loss as an LT-1. The runner's are to short to make easy HP.

TCAL95Z

1racer,

Is a ported LT4 intake any better or were you assuming ported?
Also, what does a good sheet metal intake cost and who makes them?
Do these leak oil a lot?

Thanks

1racerdude

I was figuring both ported to the max.
Depends on where ya buy it and what quality ya want. A hogan is about 2,700-3,000 and a Wilson is about 3,500-3,800 for EFI both with no jewelry.
Haven't had problems with leaks if install correctly and checked for fit before installing.

TCAL95Z

Thanks

How much HP will a good intake add?

RUFST

okay thanks guys.....so all of you all agree that's a pretty fair price for everything you saw


i know there are like 10 diff. ways to tie the long tubes to the cat back

where can i find diff. ways or the best way to do that...i know mufflex makes one but have heard bad things about it.

also he said that engine will redline about 7 grand which my stock tach as you know only goes that far...i guess you guys suggest getting a autometer tach right? where would you mount it in there out of the way..dashboard??? also any other guages i should get for the pillar?

and last question...by using nitrous wet shot you don't want the stock rev limiter right b/c it cuts fuel which is not good running wet nitrous....so that means i'd have to get a msd ingnition cut the spark correct??? and just have him program my stock rev limiter to like 10 grand where it's out of the way totally...am i on the right track here?


PICTURES OR VIDS OF 383'S, the longtube tie in, and anything else associated with this would be nice

RUFST

okay look this quote over which is similiar but with a diff. company RPM in Nashville and tell me if it's better for the value...b/c the first quote at the top...the guy said would not last as long meaning this one is not as strong as his but it is a grand cheaper

383 LT1 Built for 150 nitrous
-Eagle 4340 steel 3.750 Crankshaft
-Comp Cams Hydraulic Lifters
-Eagle H beam 6.000'' Connecting Rods
-Mahle Pistons
-Mahle Rings
-Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
-GM HD Timing Set
-Felpro Head Gaskets
-AFR cnc ported LT4 heads -Chromoly Pushrods
-Comp narrow 1.6 Rockers
-Meling High Volume Oil Pump
-Clevite Rod Bearings
-Clevite Cam Bearings
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP Head Studs
-Felpro Gasket and Seal Package
-Fully Machined w/Deck Plates
-Blueprint Assembly
-high volume fuel pump
-Port Matched LT4 Intake
-42# Injectors
-Remove and Reinstall Engine
-Dyno & Tune
-SLP or Hooker Headers
-Magnaflow Cat-Back
-Meziere water pump
-NGK Spark Plugs
-Custom Spark Plug Wires
-Walbro or Accel Fuel Pump
-58mm throttle body

$10,500