Got everything installed and working. It is an SLP line lock. I flip the switch in gear car doesnt move. I have the switch flipped then I mash the gas and the car slowly moves forward. WTF? I thought it is suppose to stay in one place so I can burn the tires. Did I do something wrong or do I have a wrong impresion? Anyway to fix that?

 

Oh ya, when I have the switch activated, my brake light comes on and stays on til I take the switch off.

 

you have to apply pedal pressure then hit the switch.

 

i've got a hurst line lock and it worked great at first but now won't work at all!

i had to pump the pedal 2-3 times to get enough pressure to stop it from rolling! and thats with street tires!

 

OK, so it isnt just my problem. I do hold down the brake when I flip the switch and then let off the brake and try to spin the tires. When you say I should pump them to get enough pressure, how do I do that? Pump it a coup-le times then hit the swith or while the switch is on hit the brakes a couple times?

 

well i would hit the brakes, engage it, then pump it twice, but in doing so i apparently blew the seals out inside, cuz it don't work no more!!!

i don't have a gauge to keep track of brake pressure, so could someone else shed some light on this topic? what's the correct way to use it and how well should it hold?

also, anyone rebuild a hurst line lock before? what's needed?

 

Heres how I work mine.

Pull up to wherever Im doing my burnout.
Put it in neutral, and rev the motor a bit while pumping the brake pedal (my cam doesnt give me much vacum to use for the power brakes, pedal is hard), and flip the switch. Release the brake pedal, put it back in 1st and do my burnout. When Im ready to roll out, I just turn the switch off, tap the brake pedal and roll forward.

Kyle

 

And your car won't go forward at all? I need it to just sit still so I can heat up the ETs.

 

Pull out of the water box to the burnout area, apply the brakes hard, flip the switch, release the brake pedal...... 5K burnout in 2nd gear with 28x11.5" slicks..... car stays exactly where I stopped it.

Do not pump the brakes AFTER you engage the solenoid... you will be pumping the fluid against a solid blockage. When the line lock is engaged, you will get the "BRAKE" light on the dash, because there is now unequal pressure in the front and rear brake circuits.

Sounds like you may not have got all the air out of the front brakes when you bled them.

 

So should I just try rebleeding the front calipers or all calipers? Then should I try rebleeding the ABS modulator too?

BTW, any tips when bleeding the brakes this is my first time. lol.

The burnout I did was in the street too. Concrete. Dont know if that matters.

 

If you try a dry burnout, it isn't unusal for the who rear end of the car to start to move off to one side.... you need to get the tires wet, then that problem goes away.

 

Ok that is exactly what happened. is that why the car went forward too then? Guess I will have to wait for the track to really test it out.