Line Lock install difficulty
03-02-2004, 03:26 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Austin texas
Posts: 1,194
What kit do you have? I have the SLP linelock kit and it was VERY easy to install. The most time consuming is bleeding the brakes
and the ABS unit. Wiring it up is very easy. I mounted the switch in the ash tray.Just take your time, get a new bottle of brake fluid
and a mighty -vac pump.
and the ABS unit. Wiring it up is very easy. I mounted the switch in the ash tray.Just take your time, get a new bottle of brake fluid
and a mighty -vac pump.
03-02-2004, 05:33 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Newark, Delaware
Posts: 3,634
I bought my Hurst through Thunder Racing. You can order their kit which has the lines prebent. You pretty much just bolt it on, run the wires, unhook the orig. lines, install the Thunder lines, bleed the brakes, and go.
With the Thunder Racing kit, the hardest part was running all the wires to the inside of the car, but they even include a complete wiring kit with theirs, too.
Frank
With the Thunder Racing kit, the hardest part was running all the wires to the inside of the car, but they even include a complete wiring kit with theirs, too.
Frank
03-03-2004, 01:58 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Posts: 100
Kits are not difficult to install if they are correctly designed.
A complete kit should include pre-formed lines, connectors, wire, a Master Arm switch in addition to an LED indicator and a solenoid control switch. This additional circuit is added so there are no incidental tripping of the line lock solenoid...
WITHOUT THE MASTER ARM CIRCUIT can lead to a shortened life of the unit not to mention a possible hazzard. The unit should be controlled by a "control switch" ONLY when the system is activated by a seperate control. This is how ours and the better manufactures design their kits.
Email me if you have any additional questions.
Steve
A complete kit should include pre-formed lines, connectors, wire, a Master Arm switch in addition to an LED indicator and a solenoid control switch. This additional circuit is added so there are no incidental tripping of the line lock solenoid...
WITHOUT THE MASTER ARM CIRCUIT can lead to a shortened life of the unit not to mention a possible hazzard. The unit should be controlled by a "control switch" ONLY when the system is activated by a seperate control. This is how ours and the better manufactures design their kits.
Email me if you have any additional questions.
Steve
Last edited by steve10; 03-03-2004 at 06:09 PM.
03-03-2004, 05:58 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
Posts: 738
Here is a link on how I did mine.
Note: This is not my site, just a site I found for this type of install.
I will be making project site on mine when I get the pics and parts list.
Line Lock Install
Look down at item #12
Note: This is not my site, just a site I found for this type of install.
I will be making project site on mine when I get the pics and parts list.
Line Lock Install
Look down at item #12
03-03-2004, 11:47 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 121
I'm glad my site was helpful to others. I had purchased the kit from Thunder Racing and it would have been a piece of cake to install it. I decided to make things more difficult by removing the ABS and traction control so I learned brake line plumbing. You do want to take Steve10's advice and make sure you have a Master Arm Switch to prevent a bored passenger from playing with the control switch at the wrong time.
03-04-2004, 06:27 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 2,668
Originally posted by steve10
Kits are not difficult to install if they are correctly designed.
A complete kit should include pre-formed lines, connectors, wire, a Master Arm switch in addition to an LED indicator and a solenoid control switch. This additional circuit is added so there are no incidental tripping of the line lock solenoid...
WITHOUT THE MASTER ARM CIRCUIT can lead to a shortened life of the unit not to mention a possible hazzard. The unit should be controlled by a "control switch" ONLY when the system is activated by a seperate control. This is how ours and the better manufactures design their kits.
Email me if you have any additional questions.
Steve
Kits are not difficult to install if they are correctly designed.
A complete kit should include pre-formed lines, connectors, wire, a Master Arm switch in addition to an LED indicator and a solenoid control switch. This additional circuit is added so there are no incidental tripping of the line lock solenoid...
WITHOUT THE MASTER ARM CIRCUIT can lead to a shortened life of the unit not to mention a possible hazzard. The unit should be controlled by a "control switch" ONLY when the system is activated by a seperate control. This is how ours and the better manufactures design their kits.
Email me if you have any additional questions.
Steve
03-04-2004, 07:32 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
Posts: 738
Why another solenoid?
Can't you just put a switch in series with the activation switch?
I'm not to sure why putting in the additional circurity will help the life of the unit. The unit is only activated when power is supplied to it.
If I'm missing something here please explain it.
Can't you just put a switch in series with the activation switch?
I'm not to sure why putting in the additional circurity will help the life of the unit. The unit is only activated when power is supplied to it.
If I'm missing something here please explain it.
03-04-2004, 09:58 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Posts: 100
The reasoning behind adding a master arm switch and lamp indicator is you will know when the circuit is ready to arm via a control switch.
This is important as if one switch is used, the solinoid can be accidently activated. At worse, it can be a hazzard if its unknowingly activated and you step on your brakes, you will not loose line pressure in your fronts. Another scenerio... someone else in the vehicle activates it unknowingly...i.e. a child...same scenerio.
Shortening the life of the unit can occur from prolonged activation. If you didn't know you activated the circuit via yourself or someone else in the car, and it was armed for extented periods ...i.e 60+ seconds, damage can result overtime.
The addition of additional parts: parts can be purchased as an addon to any "kit" or part of a vehicle, there is nothing wrong with this, I would advise to add this on any setup if it is not included. We and other designers created the kits using the additional components so it was a complete setup.
We feel that we didn't want a consumer to have to purchase a direct bolt in kit then have to go to radioshack and spend ~10.00 in additional wire, switch and LED to make the kit better.
This is important as if one switch is used, the solinoid can be accidently activated. At worse, it can be a hazzard if its unknowingly activated and you step on your brakes, you will not loose line pressure in your fronts. Another scenerio... someone else in the vehicle activates it unknowingly...i.e. a child...same scenerio.
Shortening the life of the unit can occur from prolonged activation. If you didn't know you activated the circuit via yourself or someone else in the car, and it was armed for extented periods ...i.e 60+ seconds, damage can result overtime.
The addition of additional parts: parts can be purchased as an addon to any "kit" or part of a vehicle, there is nothing wrong with this, I would advise to add this on any setup if it is not included. We and other designers created the kits using the additional components so it was a complete setup.
We feel that we didn't want a consumer to have to purchase a direct bolt in kit then have to go to radioshack and spend ~10.00 in additional wire, switch and LED to make the kit better.
03-04-2004, 10:04 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 121
Ken95Z28
You don't need another solenoid, a switch in series works fine. Depending on the Activation switch you use , it could get accidently pushed when you least expect it. The line lock solenoid is not designed to be active for more than 1 minute so if your activation switch gets pressed for more than a minute, that wears out the solenoid. The master arm switch protects against all of the above by requiring that two switches must be switched on to activate the line lock. That's much less likely to happen by accident.
97FormulaWS-6 - Quite true a kit is made up of commonly available parts, and anyone willing to invest a little time learning about wiring, fuses and relays, and even learning about brake line plumbing can install a line lock wiithout a kit. For others that just want the thing installed a kit makes it simple.
You don't need another solenoid, a switch in series works fine. Depending on the Activation switch you use , it could get accidently pushed when you least expect it. The line lock solenoid is not designed to be active for more than 1 minute so if your activation switch gets pressed for more than a minute, that wears out the solenoid. The master arm switch protects against all of the above by requiring that two switches must be switched on to activate the line lock. That's much less likely to happen by accident.
97FormulaWS-6 - Quite true a kit is made up of commonly available parts, and anyone willing to invest a little time learning about wiring, fuses and relays, and even learning about brake line plumbing can install a line lock wiithout a kit. For others that just want the thing installed a kit makes it simple.
03-04-2004, 10:24 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Austin
Posts: 99
hmmm... Lets see, I think I would spend $115 with everything included (and that includes shipping) for this kit rather than buying the SLP kit for $125 plus have to go to the store and get additional parts since the kit isn't as complete as the other one. Plus the SLP unit does not include shipping for the $125, so why would you want to spend an additional $10 for parts and another $10-$20 in shipping (they like to rape on shipping) on the SLP kit when you can get everything with the other one for only $115?
But that's just me
I guess since people are willing to spend extra on things here, I have a set of used C5 wheels for sale, you can get them used from someone else for about $350 but I will sell you mine for $400.
But that's just me
I guess since people are willing to spend extra on things here, I have a set of used C5 wheels for sale, you can get them used from someone else for about $350 but I will sell you mine for $400
.
Last edited by Alex 97Z28 M6; 03-04-2004 at 10:31 AM.
03-04-2004, 11:47 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 2,668
Very true, most people are a bolt-it-on type..
and my Line lock cost tally:
$75 - TCI Solinoid (sp)
$5 - brake line adapter fittings
$5 - Brake line
$10 - parts I already had, but expected cost if bought
Total: $95, but that's because I had all the tools to bend my own lines, and the tools and knowledge on how to build a small control box and master/trigger switch.
Not to mention where I put my trigger switch 
Imbedded in the MBA billet ****...
and my Line lock cost tally:
$75 - TCI Solinoid (sp)
$5 - brake line adapter fittings
$5 - Brake line
$10 - parts I already had, but expected cost if bought
Total: $95, but that's because I had all the tools to bend my own lines, and the tools and knowledge on how to build a small control box and master/trigger switch.
Not to mention where I put my trigger switch
Imbedded in the MBA billet ****...
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